Claiming that a topical ingredient can deliver Botox-like results is considered too good to be true. Rarely does something actually live up to the promise of reducing the appearance of deep wrinkles just as well as the popular injectable sans the needle. But lately, the skincare world has been buzzing about a peptide that’s maybe the closest we’ll ever get to this claim. Say hello to Argireline.
And it’s not all hype. The peptide-obsessed sing its praises, and all the experts back it up. If you’re looking for a non-aesthetic solution to those crow’s-feet and laugh lines, consider this your intro to the peptide that many say may transform your entire skin-care routine.
How Argireline Works
David Kim, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of SoHo Dermatology, says that Argireline (also known as acetyl hexapeptide-8 on an ingredient list) is a peptide that may have the same muscle-relaxing effects as Botox when applied topically to the skin. “Argireline is a synthetic peptide that works by inhibiting the neurotransmitter signals that cause facial muscles to contract,” adds Antony Nakhla, MD, double board-certified dermatologist and founder of Eighth Day. “The logic is similar to Botox, just far less potent and entirely topical.”
But this isn’t an ingredient you’ll want to use on its own. Dr. Nakhla explains that while Argireline can do wonders for those more dynamic lines, it works best as part of a broader peptide and growth-factor system, rather than as a standalone ingredient. “A well-formulated product that pairs it with complementary actives will always outperform one that leads with Argireline as a marketing claim,” he says.
The Benefits
The biggest benefit is its ability to smooth out dynamic lines. Dr. Kim says that Argireline is known to soften deep wrinkles between the brows, on the forehead, and in expression lines. Dr. Nakhla adds that it is best suited for someone who wants a topical solution for expression lines or something to complement other antiaging actives in their skin routine. It is also generally well-tolerated and can be considered one of the more accessible antiaging ingredients compared to its more aggressive counterparts.
Argireline vs. Copper (and Other) Peptides
The biggest difference, Dr. Nakhla says, is that Argireline is a signal-blocking peptide rather than a signal-stimulating one. Copper peptides, for example, support wound healing and collagen synthesis, and growth-factor peptides signal the skin to repair and renew, he says. With Argireline, he says it is more targeted and focuses on temporarily reducing the muscle activity responsible for creating dynamic lines.
The Downsides
As previously mentioned, Argireline is generally safe for most people to use. But as with any skin-care ingredient, there are a few things to consider. Dr. Nakhla says that the biggest downside is tempering your expectations with what the ingredient can and can’t do. “Argireline is not Botox,” he says. “The effect [of Argireline] is subtle, temporary, and dependent on consistent use. People expecting dramatic results will be disappointed.”
How to Use It
Argireline is pretty easy to incorporate into any skin routine. Dr. Nakhla says it is compatible with most active ingredients, including retinoids and other peptides. If you’re looking for a comprehensive approach to your antiaging needs, he recommends using it alongside growth factors for maximum skin-smoothing and firming results. You’ll also want to be cautious when combining so many peptides—specifically copper peptides—with ingredients like vitamin C, which may cause oxidation and reduce their efficacy.
He says it works best as a serum, where it can absorb directly into the skin without competing with heavier layers. Dr. Kim recommends using it once a day as part of your night routine.
He likes a product like the SkinCeuticals P-TIOX Anti-Wrinkle Peptide Serum, as it mixes Argireline and other peptides to smooth out fine lines. Dr. Nakhla recommends his own line, Eighth Day Regenerative Serum, but we also like the Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP or Naturium’s Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum, both of which are packed with peptides to target those dynamic lines.
And no matter which product you choose, the best tips when using this powerhouse ingredient are to be consistent and use it as part of a routine with complementary actives. “Consistency and concentration are everything with Argireline,” says Dr. Nakhla.
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