Embracing our grays has never been more popular. And the latest trend in naturally working in those silver stands for that easy, breezy, low-maintenance vibe is the very chic-sounding (and looking) French blending.
A color-application technique created by L’Oréal Professionnel, French blending strategically places color to blend your gray hair seamlessly. It’s a bespoke experience, says L’Oréal Professionnel ambassador Krista Bartik, where placement and tone are tailored to each client. “[It’s] much softer and more modern,” Bartik explains to Vogue. “Instead of covering grays, we blend them into the overall color using depth and dimension.”
How It Works
Bartik says there are three types of French blending to choose from—first blending, retouch blending, and total blending—and that the one you choose depends on how many grays you have.
First blending involves adding soft lowlights and naturally blended clusters of grays to the hair. It’s an ideal choice for those experiencing their first grays. Retouch blending is more about maintaining a blended look: You soften the regrowth line at the root and add light and dimension to the lengths and ends. Total blending has the biggest impact, she says, as it covers the entire head of hair and combines balayage and other coloring techniques for a diffused, natural finish.
Kadi Lee, celebrity colorist and founder of Highbrow Hippie, says French blending doesn’t necessarily vary by hair texture. Colorists usually have their own systems when applying these methods to a client’s specific hair needs, she says, and French blending generally works for all hair textures. “What changes is the application [of the French blending],” agrees Bartik. “I adjust my formula, sectioning, and saturation based on the hair’s texture so the blend looks as seamless as possible based on the client’s hair type.”
It can be broken down as follows:
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Celebrity colorist Jenna Perry says that French blending on fine, straight hair is kept incredibly delicate. Think minimal baby highlights to avoid harsh lines or overprocessing, focusing on translucency and shine, she says.
Lee says that French blending on wavy hair is particularly forgiving, as the natural movement and texture of the waves help color blend more effortlessly. Perry would place soft, ribbon-like highlights through the natural bends of the hair and gloss everything into an even tone. She also likes finishing it with a cut that enhances movement. “So the bend reads effortless and sunlit,” she says.
Like wavy hair, curly and coily hair is one of the most forgiving hair types for gray blending, Lee says. “The natural curl pattern creates built-in dimension and movement, which means color placement doesn’t need to be as precise,” she says. “The curls do the blending for you.”
She says the steps for French blending for curly and coily hair should follow the same framework as for thin and wavy hair. But she personally also prefers a comb-through technique to ensure every strand is evenly saturated.
French Blending vs. Gray Blending
There’s really just one main difference between these two very similar coloring techniques. Perry says to think of gray blending (which diffuses your natural grays into the rest of your hair) as the umbrella concept and French blending as a more precise, hand-painted placement. “Both approaches share the same philosophy,” adds Lee. “For most people, the better question to ask isn’t French blending or gray blending but rather do I trust my colorist to achieve a desired goal?”
If you want something soft and low-maintenance, Perry says that general gray blending works. But for something more elevated, French blending may be the move.
How to Take Care of Gray Hair
Whether it’s natural or blended, Lee explains that gray hair needs a special regimen for best upkeep. “It tends to be drier, coarser, and more prone to yellowing,” she says. “So the right routine makes a significant difference.”
She recommends regular gloss treatments at your salon and using moisturizing products, such as her own Highbrow Hippie Instant Silk Vitality Mask, to nourish the scalp and hair. Bartik agrees, saying that at-home hair maintenance can help extend the life of color, and recommends a product like the L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox Hair Maskmto help prevent color fading.
Perry recommends the Olaplex bond-building treatments and the Olaplex Hydrating Mask for basic upkeep, and occasional violet shampoos to keep hair looking bright and feeling soft.
Curious about a beauty or wellness trend? We want to know! Email Vogue’s senior beauty and wellness editor at beauty@vogue.com.
