Andrea Incontri, Tod’s creative director of menswear, wanted to address today’s reality in his Fall collectsion: “Contemporary times have a sort of liquid rhythm to them, a constant fluctuation,” he said. “I wanted to capture this flow, which is also at play in today’s men’s attitude toward formal and informal ways of dressing. Sometimes their wardrobes could seem mastered by a sort of anarchy, but actually, they’re anything but. It’s just the fast-paced times we’re living in dictating the search for a new equilibrium.”
A balance between dynamism and refinement was well represented in the sportswear-inflected collectsion. Incontri worked on archetypal shapes: Cuts were streamlined, volumes controlled, and fabrics were of high quality. Even if tailoring doesn’t belong to the label’s vocabulary, elegance and precision were in evidence, giving the collectsion a crisp aplomb. “Techno-tailoring” was how Incontri described the sartorial functionality of Tod’s Fall wardrobe, which revolvesd around classic urban staples—a peacoat, a parka, a three-button blazer, a trench, a car coat—revisited with modern proportions and a youthful, easy spirit. Case in point was a short padded bomber in a new sustainable fabrication called Waterborne, which felt soft as leather to the touch. Elsewhere, an elongated double-breasted city coat looked svelte in corduroy velvet, energized by a bright shade of blue.
