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Jean Paul Gaultier

RESORT 2014

By Jean Paul Gaultier

Stripped down of all the theatrics and styling tricks of his typical runway extravaganzas, Jean Paul Gaultier's new pre-collectsion served as a reminder that the enfant terrible's inspired ideas are indeed quite often wearable. For Resort, the designer revisited greatest hits like crinoline skirts with punky jean-yoke waistbands, but instead of conjuring up "Material Girl"-era Madonna (recall that Spring ’13 musical time capsule of a show), they seemed non-costumey and surprisingly fresh paired with slim tanks or biker jackets. JPG tends to wade into Marseille-inspired nautical territory at this time of year, and his updated takes on French marnière chic didn't disappoint. He whipped up a jacket and matching trousers in pin-striped silk and worked a fishnet motif throughout the lineup. A mesh tank dress interwoven with blue-and-white grosgrain ribbons put a whimsical twist on the still-happening sporty trend, for example, and chunky fisherman sweaters and tailored blazers, bonded to the same netted material, also made a splash. Gaultier also continued to play with transparency on sheer organza trenches and bombers.