A crystal bottle housing Thom Browne’s new smoky Vetyver Absolute scent; a Swarovski crystal-studded tube of Edward Bess x Rolling Stones bright crimson lipstick; a neon fuchsia wig crafted by the hair artist Julien d’Ys—these are among the many hard-to-find beauty offerings on display in the new Dover Street Parfums Market in Paris, the latest outpost from Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo and her husband, Adrian Joffe.
The ultra-modern two-level space located near the Musée Picasso in the Marais showcases a carefully curated selection of perfumes along with makeup, skin, and hair products. Big brands are represented (Gucci, Byredo) alongside more niche labels like Aer, a botanical fragrance brand out of Berlin. “We’ve got very famous luxury brands, and then ones nobody’s heard of,” Joffe tells Vogue. “They all have to have a vision, they all tell a story.” And being among the foremost disruptors in the retail space, Kawakubo and Joffe labored over every detail of the presentation as well, dreaming up a whole new kind of shopping experience.
“You walk into a department store and you’re bombarded with ‘try this, try that!’ because it’s all about advertising and marketing,” explains Joffe. “We wanted give customers a sense of discovery, which is something I think we’ve lost in a lot of shops.” As such, every architectural element of the space hinges on exploration, with Kawakubo designing a “forest of pillars” throughout, with some custom-designed by collaborators—see Browne’s cast in gray wool and Byredo’s lacquered in Yves Klein Blue.
In keeping with the ever-evolving market, there will also be pop-up exhibits that come in and out of the store. The current one features avant-garde wigs by d’Ys, a longtime collaborator of Kawakubo’s, as well as a Comme des Garçons x MAC alcove styled like a tattoo parlor (it offers an array of inky makeup products handpicked by the designer).
Below, Joffe highlights five of his favorite DSPM offerings, from an apothecary-style bergamot body wash to a fresh and addictive cedarwood fragrance.
Photo: Courtesy of Dover Street Parfums Market1/5“Aer is [run by] two guys: one was in fashion, the other has been in beauty all his life. They’re a couple and make their fragrances, everything to order, in their house in Berlin. Dedicated, passionate—their fragrances are top quality. I love Cedar, it’s amazing!”
Aer Accord No. 04: Cedar, $132
Photo: Courtesy of Dover Street Parfums Market2/5“C.O. Bigelow has never been in France before! I love the pharmacy in New York with its authenticity and history. And this bergamot body wash is so fresh first thing in the morning. How can you not love it?”
C.O. Bigelow Bergamot Body Wash, $23
Photo: Courtesy of Dover Street Parfums Market3/5“Ben [Gorham, Byredo’s founder] is a genius at what he does. He really thinks outside the box and believes in creation. I fell in love with this hand cream, and I never wear hand cream. It’s to die for!”
Byredo Sundazed Hand Cream, $42
Photo: Courtesy of Dover Street Parfums Market4/5“Rei was very into the idea of tattoos, so she chose these seven MAC products that can last for days. You can use the makeup, black and blue eyeliners, to create a ‘tattoo.’ She put it in a vacuum-packed kit, and you can keep the bag afterwards too.”
Comme des Garçons CDG Tattoo Kit by MAC, price upon request
Photo: Courtesy of Dover Street Parfums Market5/5“When Francisco Costa left Calvin Klein for a change of life, he went back to Brazil and found these amazing plants. Just four products, his line is very concise. I use this oil every day now.”
Costa Brazil Kaya Anti-Aging Face Oil, $125
