Photos: Identity Politics
Photographed by Craig McDean1/13Frankly Scarlet
Christian Dior under Raf Simons is a house for sophisticates who know how to combine elegance with sharp modernity. Model Fei Fei Sun wears a signal-red coat that signals a fearless panache. Double-serge wool coat and snakeskin heels; Dior boutiques.
Photographed by Craig McDean2/13Ahead of the Curve
Phoebe Philo fans stride beyond the quotidian with covetable clothes, cut surprisingly in shapes with a distinct sculptural bravado. Karlie Kloss wears a double-face cashmere autumn coat as cozy as a warm embrace, and a silver necklace; Barneys New York, NYC. Details, see In This Issue.
Photographed by Craig McDean3/13Gypsies, Tramps, and Thieves
**Riccardo Tisci’**s collectsion was a love song to wayfaring magpies who like their skirts long, their prints mixed, and their embellishments many. Joan Smalls wears a Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci embroidered organza sweater, a printed satin dress, medallion bracelets, and python boots; clothing at givenchy.com.
Photographed by Craig McDean4/13Paws Up
With its kilt/pants hybrids and menswear pieces prettied up with feminine embroidery, Van Noten’s show was a beautiful monster of shaggy, gender-bending creativity. On Stella Tennant: Faux-fur coat ($1,500), alpaca sweater ($695), cotton-and-silk pants with kilt, and shoes; coat at Blake, Chicago, and pants at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. Details, see In This Issue.
Photographed by Craig McDean5/13Louis, Louis
Marc Jacobs sent out models in vintage-inspired dishabille: long dressing gowns and substantial overcoats embellished with ombré sequins, and filmy slips and knickers peeking out under fur chubbies. From far left (on Carolyn Murphy): Louis Vuitton sequined coat, lace and silk satin dress, bag, and sandals; on Karen Elson: mink coat, shetland knit top, silk shorts with lace detail, pochette, and sandals; select Louis Vuitton boutiques.
Photographed by Craig McDean6/13A Spoonful of Sugar
Miuccia Prada set a particularly playful mood with jaunty Mary Poppins spots and diagonal stripes. Vanessa Axente wears a jacquard–and–Persian lamb coat ($4,260), a silk taffeta skirt ($2,890), a scarf, and a ribbon belt; select Miu Miu boutiques. Details, see In This Issue.
BEAUTY NOTE
Treat your hair like your skin: Pantene Pro-V’s Ultimate 10 BB Crème adds shine, repairs damage, and controls frizz.
Photographed by Craig McDean7/13Mesdames X
If you prefer to keep things both ladylike and spiked with a bit of sex, there were plenty of standout options. From far left: On Tennant: Chanel dress, gloves, tweed gaiters, and ankle boots; select Chanel boutiques. On Sun: Nina Ricci bustier top, leather sleeves, skirt ($1,650), belt, and heels; clothing at select Neiman Marcus stores. On Kloss: Rochas coat and pumps; rochas.com
Photographed by Craig McDean8/13Moscow on the Hudson
At the New York shows, the new black was definitely . . . black. For the ever-romantic Ralph Lauren, though, that didn’t mean hard-edged minimalism—it meant opulent swaths of velvet with poetic, Russia-in-winter embellishments. On Catherine McNeil: Ralph Lauren Collection silk embroidered coat with shearling collar, newsboy cap, and boots; select Ralph Lauren stores.
Photographed by Craig McDean9/13Surprise Party
Alber Elbaz wowed the runway crowds with his mastery of, well, everything, including this buoyant cocktail mix of nude leather and satin. It’s tailoring for eclectic dressers who enjoy the adrenaline rush of the unique. Carolyn Murphy wears a leather shirt ($4,920), skirt ($3,928), and oxfords; Lanvin, NYC. Details, see In This Issue.
Photographed by Craig McDean10/13Lullaby Of Broadway
Never want to say goodnight? Marc Jacobs played elegantly with slinky pajama pants and razzle-dazzle showtime sheaths. Elson wears a Marc Jacobs paillette jacket with fox collar ($3,700) and sequined silk dress ($2,800); Marc Jacobs, NYC.
BEAUTY NOTE
Flawless skin requires care. Clarins’ do-it-all Double Serum attacks the early signs of aging.
Photographed by Craig McDean11/13Match Makers
In Milan, Dolce presented an ultra-polished parade of coordinated looks for society women who know a thing or two about dressing to win. Liya Kebede wears scarlet, the most powerful hue in the spectrum. Silk-jacquard coat, dress ($3,325), floral mosaic earrings, and Mary Jane heels; select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques. Details, see In This Issue.
Photographed by Craig McDean12/13Chelsea Girls
**Hedi Slimane’**s aim was to épater le bourgeois, sending out a stomping band of slightly off-their-rocker rock chicks for a walk on the wild side. These Edie Sedgwick–esque combinations—hot pants and a Liberty-style-print blouse?—are so wrong, yet on Kloss they’re splendidly, absolutely all right. Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane fox coat, silk blouse ($1,550), embellished briefs, tights, and boots; Saint Laurent, NYC.
Photographed by Craig McDean13/13Fallen Women
Miuccia Prada’s bedraggled hemlines and oddly paired sweaters and sequins made models look like they’d dressed in haste the morning after a night of subversive and glamorous sin. Amanda Murphy wears a sequined wool dress, a shetland sweater ($770), a suede belt, and platform heels; select Prada boutiques. In this story: hair, Paul Hanlon; makeup, Stéphane Marais. Produced by Kate Collings-Post for North Six. Details, see In This Issue.
Production Design: Piers Hanmer for Art + Commerce
