Photographed by Mikael Jansson1/11Abasi Rosborough
Abdul Abasi, 38, and Greg Rosborough, 35, use dead-stock textiles to modify traditional tailored pieces with a futuristic bent; colors are slick, and the cuts are forward-thinking. Abasi—who spent his early years after high school in the U.S. Army and working for NATO— describes their label, which embraces the technological and the biological, as “anatomically informed, architectural, and soulful.” As far as inspiration goes, Rosborough—who cut his design teeth at Ralph Lauren— cites Elon Musk, while Abasi looks to Mother Nature. Abasi Rosborough jacket and pants. Rag & Bone T-shirt.
Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman.
Photographed by Mikael Jansson2/11Private Policy
“We see our brand as a news outlet,” says Siying Qu, 26, of the genderless label she and fellow Chinese-born, Parsons- trained designer Haoran Li, 27, founded in New York in 2013. (“It is very rewarding when we prove to people how fashion can be used to express serious and sometimes complex topics,” adds Li.) Their latest collectsion delivers us clothes to wear to the revolution, with textiles offering enough durability and protection to incite its wearers to “protest at any time,” as Li says. Private Policy quilted, snap-button jacket and pants.
Photographed by Mikael Jansson3/11Barragán
The Mexican-born designer Victor Barragán, 27, describes his aesthetic in two simple words: “sex positivism.” Championing gender in all its iterations, Barragán flouts any and all constrictions on freedom with slinky dresses, crop tops, and tailoring for everybody, with the result being an almost impossible coolness—and, in the larger realm, “visibility for my community,” as Barragán puts it. Barragán lettuce- hemmed dress. Beats Studio3 Wireless headphones.
Photographed by Mikael Jansson4/11Christopher John Rogers
While his contemporaries are mining the aughts for fashion cues, Bushwick, Brooklyn– based Christopher John Rogers, 25, prefers the va-va-voom of the 1980s with its dramatic proportions and oversize flounces and pleats. And though he finds inspiration in Abstract Expressionism, the Baton Rouge–born designer describes his Fashion Fund experience as surreal: “I feel like it isn’t actually happening!” he says. Christopher John Rogers optical-illusion shirt and skirt. Rebecca de Ravenel earrings.
Photographed by Mikael Jansson5/11Lou Dallas
The six-year-old label from Brooklyn-based Raffaella Hanley, 30, isn’t afraid to indulge in whimsy. Along with mere clothes, Hanley aims to deliver “a unique emotional and social value,” she says. Hers are pieces with a covert sex appeal— and a palpable nostalgia for an unfettered and unbound creative freedom, replete with bows, bedazzlements, and ruffles for no reason. (A sustainable approach that incorporates upcycling is mere icing on the cake.) Lou Dallas dress. Necklaces by Eva Fehren and Scosha.
Photographed by Mikael Jansson6/11Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Though the Madrid-born designer Alejandra Alonso Rojas, 34, is a fourth-generation hand-knitter, her label also offers everything from elegant satin slip dresses to woven woolen trousers. Alonso Rojas, now based in New York, says she hopes to instill “Spanish tradition and sophistication influenced by my modern life.” Part of that contemporary sensibility: a commitment to sustainability. “Our development- and-production process,” she says, “makes for inherently slow fashion.” Alejandra Alonso Rojas sweater and skirt. Scosha earrings. Lou Dallas x Aurelia Cotton rings.
Photographed by Mikael Jansson7/11TRE by Natalie Ratabesi
L.A.-based designer Natalie Ratabesi, 41, eschews dainty dresses for empowered separates. Trousers are cut every which way—a zipper here, a pleat there—while jackets come with a surprise drawstring, equal parts form and function. They’re classic pieces that seem to say, Don’t underestimate me. “I’m not exactly a newcomer,” says Ratabesi, who’s worked everywhere from John Galliano to Oscar de la Renta. “But being part of the Fashion Fund is incredibly exciting.” TRE by Natalie Ratabesi jumpsuit. Abasi Rosborough boots.
Photographed by Mikael Jansson8/11Reese Cooper
The Atlanta-born, L.A.-dwelling designer Reese Cooper, now 21 (he put out his first collectsion when he was 18), doesn’t need to look far to stoke his creativity. “My inspiration over the last few years has been exploring my new home of California,” he says, and his work shows it: What could be merely slouchy looks careful, and most everything is festooned with a hoodie. Reese Cooper anorak, shirt, skirt, and pants. Proenza Schouler crossbody bag. 3.1 Phillip Lim sandals.
Photographed by Mikael Jansson9/11Danielle Frankel
Danielle Hirsch of Danielle Frankel delivers us a first in Fashion Fund history—a bridal-designer finalist. Her label provides an antidote for those brides allergic to the strapless cupcake wedding dress—think brocade suits, Fortuny-esque gowns, and satin columns in shades of pearl, bone, and ecru. “I am slowly making it okay for a woman to walk down the aisle in something new,”she says. (For her own wedding, Hirsch, now 30, wore a vintage trench with a silk-faille shirtdress inspired by one of her fiancé’s button-down shirts.) Danielle Frankel structured jacket, pants, and earring. Brother Vellies mules.
Photographed by Mikael Jansson10/11Collina Strada
Few designers are as staunchly dedicated to the environment as Hillary Taymour, 32, of Collina Strada, who uses recycled and vintage dead-stock fabrics exclusively— and has banned single-use plastics from her Chinatown, Manhattan, studio. But while she may have a less-is-more philosophy to consumption, her aesthetic is anything but minimalist as prints clash elegantly in ecstatically layered looks. “If people see my clothes and feel like they can engage with the environment in a more caring and sustainable way,” says Taymour, ” I’ve done my job!” Collina Strada dress, bodysuit, skirt, and gloves. Collina Strada x Hoka shoes. Rebecca de Ravenel earrings (worn as necklace). In this story: hair, Shay; makeup, Dick Page. Produced by Day Productions. Set design by Kyle Hagemeier and Mary Howard for Mary Howard Studio.
Photographed by Stefan Ruiz11/11The 2019 finalists, from left: Victor Barragán of Barragán; Alejandra Alonso Rojas; Haoran Li and Siying Qu of Private Policy; Christopher John Rogers; Reese Cooper; Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada; Danielle Hirsch of Danielle Frankel; Raffaella Hanley of Lou Dallas; Natalie Ratabesi of TRE; and Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough of Abasi Rosborough. Fashion Editor: Jorden Bickham.
