Photos: More is More
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 20141/12Handkerchief Hems
The swinging array of asymmetric skirts shown by Phoebe Philo at Céline will put a spring in your step. Imaan Hammam wears a Céline red-and-black striped top ($1,600), a white-lined black skirt ($4,000), and ankle boots; select Barneys New York stores.
Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 20142/12Bangles and Beads
Miuccia Prada, as agent provocateur, embellished classic pieces with glittery abandon. On Vanessa Axente, far left: Prada patchwork wool coat, bracelets, crocodile bag, leg warmers, and heels; select Prada boutiques. On Amanda Murphy: Miu Miu showgirl silk top and navy skirt ($3,805 each), choker, bracelet, bag, tights, and lace-up boots; select Miu Miu boutiques.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 20143/12Total Blackout
In his thrilling adieu at Louis Vuitton and his renewed focus on his own line, Marc Jacobs sent out gorgeously worked pieces in anything-but-basic all black. On Hammam, far left: Louis Vuitton mink and feather–trimmed jacket, embroidered blouse, skirt with Stephen Sprouse graffiti embroidery, feather headdress, bag, and boots; select Louis Vuitton boutiques. On Sam Rollinson: Marc Jacobs taffeta Victorian dress and shoes; Marc Jacobs, NYC.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 20144/12Razzle Dazzle
Hedi Slimane mashed up the impudence of seventies punk with his maison’s historic Gallic suavity. On Suvi Koponen: Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane silver embroidered bolero, sequined top, and leather micromini ($2,890 each), and leopard-print heels; Saint Laurent, NYC.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 20145/12Tribal Totems
Riccardo Tisci brought down the house with a sophisticated collectsion of earthy hues and Indian and African patterns. On Koponen: Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci tabard pullover with sequined mask pattern and silk crepe-de-Chine trousers ($2,390); select Neiman Marcus stores.
BEAUTY NOTE
Baby-blonde hair—from a bottle—needs TLC. Used once a week, John Frieda’s new Sheer Blonde Colour Correct Anti-Brassy Cleansing Treatment helps keep hair looking fresh.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 20146/12A Gilded Era
Marco Zanini’s ebullient embrace of the ultrafeminine Rochas ideal found its strength in a kind of diaphanous beauty. On Rollinson: Rochas floral duchesse-silk, velvet, and organza jacket ($3,280), silk organza dress ($3,575), necklaces, bowling tote, and feathered shoes; clothing at luisaviaroma.com.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 20147/12Graffiti Games
Several designers scrawled patterns from shoulder to toe—but no one more memorably than Ann Demeulemeester, who after 28 years is moving on from her namesake house. On Karlie Kloss: Ann Demeulemeester coat ($3,890), leggings ($198), and chunk-heel ankle boots; clothing at H. Lorenzo, Los Angeles. Ann Demeulemeester by Elvis Pompilio straw hat and veil.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 20148/12Fit to Print
Michael Kors and Dolce & Gabbana interpreted the ever-present prints movement on a more delicate scale on date dresses with a touch of vintage whimsy. On Koponen, far left: Michael Kors hand-beaded pansy floral dress and sandals; select Michael Kors stores. On Joan Smalls: Dolce & Gabbana polka-dot silk dress ($2,095), handbag, and sandals with column heels; select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 20149/12Radical Transparency
Chiffons and organzas and other sheers were all over the runways, but Raf Simons at Dior took the moment to a dramatic, high-contrast extreme. On Murphy: Dior pink double-breasted silk sleeveless jacket ($3,700), yellow transparent knit skirt ($990), box bag with badges, and pumps; Dior boutiques.
BEAUTY NOTE
Add a creamy orange lip to your pastel palette. Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Bolero delivers a lightweight yet opaque finish.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 201410/12The Embroidered Effect
Elizabethan crewel— an intricate handwork first worn by sixteenth-century belles of the ball—inspired Oscar de la Renta’s refreshing party dresses, which are lavished with “society silk” swags. On Hammam: Oscar de la Renta embroidered silk faille dress with rose needlepoint and suede heels; oscardelarenta.com.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 201411/12Garçonne. Garçonne
The schoolgirl look was in attendance, too, but even expected touchstones of naïveté—Peter Pan collars, boxy shapes—were elevated to something far more creative. Karl Lagerfeld wove his Chanel tweeds from rope or tulle, while Ralph Lauren gave his uniform dress a mod mini crop. On Smalls, near right: Chanel fantasy tweed jacket, matching skirt ($2,600), and patent leather–and–knit boots; select Chanel boutiques. On Rollinson: Ralph Lauren Collection double-face knit dress ($1,895) and Mary Janes; select Ralph Lauren stores.
Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 201412/12Kinetic Art
At Calvin Klein Collection, Francisco Costa experimented with origami folds of fabric, creating garments akin to improvised sculpture. On Kloss: Calvin Klein Collection stark-white wrap vest ($1,495), deep-cuffed “unfinished” trousers ($1,995), and sneaker sandals; Calvin Klein Collection, NYC.
In this story:
Hair: Julien d’Ys for Julien d’Ys
Makeup: Peter Philips
Produced by Kate Collings-Post for North Six
Production design: Stefan Beckman for Exposure NY
