New York, London, Milan, and Paris may be the capitals of the fashion world, but you can be sure that young talent isn't limited to these four geographical entities. The start of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia (which kicked off yesterday) inspired us to look into new designers from Down Under, and what we found came as a pleasant surprise. Rather than the neon hues and busy prints of their contemporaries, the labels we found most compelling focused on high-end fabrics, refined tailoring, and androgynous shapes. Here, five new Australian lines we have our eyes on right now.
Photo: Courtesy of Dion Lee1/5As perhaps the most successful designer coming out of Australia, Dion Lee is best known for those body-con dresses and graphic prints. His diffusion label—Line II, which he started in 2011—however, zeros in on tailored elements, muted colors, and clean lines. It feels more wearable—and not least because it's nearly half the price of his main collectsion.
2/5Founded in 2008, Lo Sordo is the most senior member in this roundup, and often cited as a good indication of where Australian fashion is headed. His elegant shapes and wool work landed him a spot as finalist in the International Woolmark Prize for 2013/2014—and his perfectly tailored trousers have secured a spot for him in our hearts.
Photo: Courtesy of Strateas Carlucci3/5At a little over two years old, Strateas.Carlucci has already racked up an impressive number of accolades: regional finalists in the 2013/2014 edition of the International Woolmark Prize; finalists in the 2014 BT Emerging Designer Awards; and winner of the Tiffany & Co. National Designer Award in March. Designers Mario-Luca Carlucci and Peter Strateas were able to quickly hone in on their aesthetic (sculptural knitwear, black and white tailored separates) in part because they've worked together before, on the equally avant-garde label Trimapee. And though the duo shows in Paris, the collectsions are able to maintain an Australian vibe—their signature jackets are made of kangaroo leather.
Photo: Courtesy of Christopher Esber4/5Christopher Esber
Esber made his Australian Fashion Week debut at age 23, but even then he exhibited a keen understanding of what women want to wear. His clothes are relaxed and pared-back, with a focus on texture rather than loud prints (he works directly with textile weaving specialists to make his one-of-a-kind fabrics). Four years later, the industry has taken notice of his talent: He won the BT Financial Emerging Fashion Designer Award in 2013 and was a finalist at the 2013/2014 International Woolmark Prize.
Photo: Courtesy of Kahlo5/5Inspired by a certain Frida for their label's name, friends Rachelle Sinclair and Fay Ogunbadejo cite female artists like her as well as Marina Abramovic and Del Kathryn Barton as inspiration for their line, which they founded in 2011. Fabrics sourced from Australia, Italy, and the U.S. lend a luxurious touch to their pared back aesthetic and androgynous silhouettes. But more than anything, these clothes seem utterly effortless.
