1/24
Photo: Indigital.tv2/24Raf Simons Fall 2017 Menswear
Nicole Phelps, Director, Replica Handbag Store RunwayMy pick from menswear is Raf Simons’s vest, trouser, and “I Heart NY” duct tape outfit. I love wearing pants to fancy black-tie events, so I’d swap out the chisel-toe shoes for high pointy pumps and try to score some extra duct tape to really cinch the waist.
Photo: Indigital.tv3/24AMI Fall 2017 Menswear, Berluti Fall 2017 Menswear, Christopher Raeburn Fall 2017 Menswear
Luke Leitch, Vogue.com Contributing EditorLuxe-normcore ensembles in all-camel were a feature from Berluti to Prada to Zegna and beyond. Ami came closest to how I’d imagine myself wearing it. The new Berluti cipher is a monied artist with a hobo soul and a yen for the sumptuous. Haider Ackermann’s debut here was a fine marriage of the man and his new house. Why was the duffle—a coat originally cobbled together for sailors to shrug into when going on deck—the outerwear piece of the season? Search me. Christopher Raeburn’s version made out of recycled Danish army blankets and felt camo patches was one of my favorites—along with Zegna’s double-faced extra-long coat in camel.
Photo: Indigital.tv4/24Raf Simons Fall 2017 Menswear
Virginia Smith, Vogue Fashion and Accessories Market DirectorThis look from Raf Simons perfectly sums up my feelings as of late—and I’m happy to wear my heart on my sleeve, or my sweater.
Photo: Indigital.tv5/24Martine Rose Fall 2017 Menswear, Louis Vuitton Fall 2017 Menswear, Raf Simons Fall 2017 Menswear
Sarah Mower, Vogue.com Chief CriticI loved this Martine Rose satin shirt, tie, and tiepin so much, I went and ordered them for myself, plus a burgundy jersey tailored jacket. She’s that good. As Grace Wales Bonner also remarked, “The tie’s having a Thing.” That Thing is also to do with the comeback of tailoring and people talking about corporate suits, as Demna Gvasalia did at Balenciaga. I was compelled, though, by the comeback of the wider pant—Kim Jones completely nailed the fluid trouser at Vuitton. This, as plain as it seems, looked the epitome of modern ease to me.
Photo: Indigital.tv6/24Prada Fall 2017 Menswear, Balenciaga Fall 2017 Menswear, Marni Fall 2017 Menswear
Mark Holgate, Vogue Fashion News DirectorIn reality, I’m more likely to wear the opening look—same corduroy pants, with a gray sweater and blue shirt—but I love this sweater so much. Demna’s rethink of tailoring was fantastic, original, really compelling, but instead of the more formal looks, it is this coat, scarf, and pants that I want. Actually, I want a lot of this collectsion. I’ll need a bigger shopping bag than the one he’s carrying. Francesco Risso made a great debut at Marni. And from what I’ve seen of the women’s, he’s going to be just as good come February.
Photo: Indigital.tv7/24Patrik Ervell Fall 2017 Menswear
Sara Moonves, Vogue Contributing EditorI loved the oversize windbreakers, especially Look 1, at Patrik Ervell. His references of the early U.K. rave scene are right on with what I like in fashion at the moment.
Photo: Indigital.tv8/24Prada Fall 2017 Menswear, Gosha Rubchinskiy Fall 2017 Menswear, Balenciaga Fall 2017 Menswear
Diego Hadis, Vogue.com ContributorMrs. Prada showed many of her looks with knitwear instead of button-downs—a hint of how prominent statement sweaters were on the men’s runways for Fall. Prada had some of the very best this season, including crewnecks with painterly natures mortes that evoked works by Giorgio Morandi and other 20th-century masters. Gosha Rubchinskiy moved on from the British casuals looks of his Spring collectsion, shifting focus from the styles in the soccer stands to the field itself. This time out, his Adidas collaboration replaced Fila and Kappa, and the players-meets-coaches outfits mixed tri-stripe rain ponchos and warm-up suits with tailoring. But the strongest piece was a turtleneck sweater bearing a dynamic Kazimir Malevich–like abstraction of a futbol game in mid-play. By now, Demna Gvasalia is known for his cheeky détournement. Still, the biggest surprise was Balenciaga’s new logo, which recalled an emblem from last year’s presidential election. Neither the iconic tee nor the rest of this look—striped hoodie, padded flannel shirt, work trousers, or the brand’s excellent new sneakers—are necessarily anything that Bernie Sanders would wear, and yet his legacy as an anti-style touchstone remains secure.
Photo: Indigital.tv9/24Palmiers du Mal Fall 2017 Menswear
Alessandra Codinha, Vogue.com Culture EditorLoved the sort of luxuriously louche silk “sleep shirts” from Palmiers du Mal. (Best part? They’re machine washable.)
Photo: Indigital.tv10/24Craig Green Fall 2017 Menswear, Balenciaga Fall 2017 Menswear,Gosha Rubchinskiy Fall 2017 Menswear
Nick Remsen, Vogue.com Contributing EditorCraig’s work is just so solid and so smart. I like this color combination a lot—it’s super weird—and I also like the faux-oxygen tubings around the hood. It’s not the most uplifting look of all time, but it makes you think. I wear a lot of front-and-center logos and graphics. “Statement jumpers,” as one colleague politely put it. This Balenciaga hoodie is all kinds of right in its wrongness. I’m going to buy this look head to toe and book a trip to Moscow. Kaliningrad was cool, and now I want to see more of Russia, thanks to Gosha.
Photo: Indigital.tv11/24Alexander McQueen Fall 2017 Menswear, Balmain Fall 2017 Menswear
Edward Barsamian, Vogue.com Style EditorThis year, I vowed to introduce more color and print into my solidly monochromatic wardrobe and Alexander McQueen’s punchy paisley evening suit with a natty shawl collar is ideal for upcoming formal affairs. That being said, I haven’t met an all-white outfit I haven’t loved, and Balmain’s ribbed ensemble looks cozy and chic.
Photo: Indigital.tv12/24Berluti Fall 2017 Menswear
Steff Yotka, Fashion News and Emerging Platforms EditorThis Berluti coat from Haider Ackermann’s debut collectsion has been haunting my dreams since it walked the runway. Men, take note, this is how you elevate the everyday.
Photo: Indigital.tv13/24Balenciaga Fall 2017 Menswear
Michael Philouze, Vogue Menswear EditorBoldness and irreverence were captured in the new sweatshirt look of Balenciaga.
Photo: Indigital.tv14/24Vetements Fall 2017 Menswear, Raf Simons Fall 2017 Menswear
Emma Morrison, Vogue Market EditorA bit of a cheat, since it’s technically a women’s look, but this is exactly how I wish I could look every day (slightly sloppy, mostly oversize, and definitely cool). A perfect coat with a T-shirt and pretty (but still somewhat punky) necklace—I’m sold.
Photo: Indigital.tv15/24Balenciaga Fall 2017 Menswear, Loewe Fall 2017 Menswear, J.W.Anderson Fall 2017 Menswear
Taylor Angino, Vogue Fashion Market ManagerThe puffer coat paired with the pajama pants creates this arctic leisure look that can trudge through any blizzard. How ’bout dah! This artful take on a classically utilitarian silhouette is the definition of major. Jonathan Anderson presents California-skater coolness with collegiate realness.
Photo: Indigital.tv16/24Alexander McQueen Fall 2017 Menswear
Willow Lindley, Vogue Associate Market EditorLove this nod to modern suiting, and I’m pretty sure I will dream about this coat.
Photo: Indigital.tv17/24Dries Van Noten Fall 2017 Menswear, Alexander McQueen Fall 2017 Menswear
Grace Givens, Vogue Cheap Replica Handbags EditorThis Dries look encapsulates my ideal sweater-weather ensemble. Bring on the snow! For the perfect transition from day to night, I have my eye on this paisley-print suit—punk-inspired jewels included!
Photo: Indigital.tv18/24Louis Vuitton Fall 2017 Menswear, Balenciaga Fall 2017 Menswear, Gosha Rubchinskiy Fall 2017 Menswear
Sara Klausing, Vogue Associate Market EditorLouis Vuitton x Supreme was the collaboration of my dreams. Bless you, Kim Jones! Pinstripe pants and an oversize puffer—this is everything I want to be wearing this winter. Note the Demna off-the-shoulder styling optional. I think everyone is excited to wear their Adidas track pants and pullovers in a more thoughtful way. Here’s to hoping I can get my hands on a piece from this Russian designer’s collectsion before the country hosts the World Cup next year.
Photo: Indigital.tv19/24Raf Simons Fall 2017 Menswear, Raf Simons Fall 2017 Menswear, Prada Fall 2017 Menswear
Justin Fernandez, Vogue Men’s Market AssociateSelf-referencing his now iconic Twin Peaks collectsion, the coats with the varsity sweater sleeves were a favorite of mine at Raf Simons. Belting them with duct tape just makes them all that much better. Dream coat, cream coat—all of a sudden, I’m in need of a cream coat. The watercolor landscape knits at Prada . . . Need I say more?
Photo: Indigital.tv20/24Margiela Fall 2017 Menswear
Alexandra Michler, Vogue Market EditorThe cinched shape of this coat gives it a unisex appeal, and I love a red leather pant.
Photo: Indigital.tv21/24Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2017 Menswear
Gaultier Navarre, Vogue Men’s Market AssociateI was really amazed how Sebastien Meunier managed to bring so much softness in the big cold marble room at the Palais de Tokyo. His message for his collectsion, “Hope,” was not only romantically translated with the layering of an ivory tulle tunic and a black coat, but also written in French—“L’Avenir”—on the collar of most of the looks. A touch full of taste and sense in a world where the future is so uncertain . . .
Photo: Indigital.tv22/24Berluti Fall 2017 Menswear, Ermenegildo Zegna Fall 2017 Menswear, Rick Owens Fall 2017 Menswear
Francesca Ragazzi, Vogue Associate Market EditorI liked how Haider Ackermann kept the classics of the maison for his first season at Berluti but added at the same time an interesting twist, proving his strength in mixing colors and working on perfect proportions. Ermenegildo Zegna, and in particular, the dark navy pieces proposed for next fall, will forever be my first choice for an impeccably elegant gentleman—a navy suit is always the sharpest option. Leather pieces are a must-have in every man’s closet . . . I think everyone should have a look at the amazing masterpieces created by Rick Owens to get inspired. What a show!
Photo: Indigital.tv23/24Martine Rose Fall 2017 Menswear, Martine Rose Fall 2017 Menswear
Madeline Swanson, Vogue Fashion Market AssistantFrom golden tie clips to pleated khakis styled with white Nike sneakers, the Revenge of the (chic) Nerds moment happening in Martine Rose’s Fall collectsion is striking a major chord for me. Martine’s moody twist on the ’80s Poindexter (see Looks 6 and 18 for a couple favorites) makes hers one of the most unique and interesting—but also most relatable—menswear shows I’ve seen this season.
Photo: Indigital.tv24/24Berluti Fall 2017 Menswear, Berluti Fall 2017 Menswear, Jeffrey Rudes Fall 2017 Menswear
Emily Farra, Vogue.com Fashion News WriterI can already picture Tilda Swinton wearing one of these velvet Berluti suits on the red carpet. She always looks incredible in Haider Ackermann’s own line, and the fact that he showed the plum jacket and trousers on Jamie Bochert proves they’re basically unisex! Speaking of great jackets, this Jeffrey Rüdes one would just get better and better with age.