Fall 2013 is a season of duality, of opposites attracting. For every beaded, bejeweled rocker chick shimmying in an extravagant fur and short skirt, there’s a minimalist sporting a sober dress that gives maximum coverage. For every over-the-top fur scarf, there’s a discreet, long-closet-life purse. For every menswear-inspired tweed, there’s gleaming velvet. Everything is being flipped and turned around. Bags, once the bearer of a thousand styling tricks, have turned understated and barely stand out from what they’re worn with (in fact, some designers are camouflaging them with the clothes), while the humble coat has suddenly ramped up the action, roaring down the runways from New York to Paris in versions beaded, zippered, embellished, and richly plush. There’s also been a gender swap as Savile Row tweeds morph into Hitchcock heroine–worthy clothes that echo the mystery and glamour of the forties, fifties, and early sixties. In the end, all this comes down to the edit: The way women decide to make the pieces this season work for their wardrobes.
1/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com2/140This strong, sophisticated, and austere collectsion served as a reminder that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have grown up personally and professionally and are now thirty-somethings at the helm of a global brand.
Photo: Flippo Fior/InDiigitalteam/GoRunway.com3/140With elaborate construction and a playful approach to ladylike dressing, this collectsion encapsulated the experience, strength, and natural talent of two men: Oscar de la Renta and John Galliano.
Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com4/140The sun rises, the sun sets, some models are missing pants, others are missing tops . . . nothing was a given in **Marc Jacobs’**s moody, romantic universe except for the precision in his craft and vision.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com5/140Christopher Bailey continued to put his playful spin on Burberry’s classic trench—animal prints, leather fringe, perforated gold rings—and also threw in some of the season’s best sweaters and pencil skirts.
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com6/140When Miuccia Prada described her ravishing collectsion as one of “raw elegance,” she neglected to mention that her particular strain of vintage glamour was also mystifying, daring, and unnerving in the most wonderful way.
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com7/140“A prologue” is how Alexander Wang referred to his debut collectsion for the house—a stark, refined, and structural exercise in Balenciaga hallmarks as filtered through Wang’s characteristically modern lens.
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com8/140To the sound of sister pianists Katia and Marielle Labèque, Peter Copping presented clothes that looked to be inspired as much by ballerinas as by punks—curvaceous suits, quilted silk coats, and relatively racy evening dresses with sheer panels.
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com9/140C
While others riffed on the now-iconic linear Céline aesthetic, leave it to Phoebe Philo to flip the script and offer up a softer, prettier, but no less modern idea of femininity.
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com10/140Raf Simons mixed a Magritte surrealism with Warhol-ian pop and classic Dior codes to come up with a collectsion that was both quirky and utterly sophisticated.
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com11/140Who other than Riccardo Tisci could fuse gypsy ruffles with chiffon sweatshirts and puffer biker jacket corsets in ways that were both wearable and wholly desirable?
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com12/140Regardless of where you stand on this provocative collectsion, there’s no denying that **Hedi Slimane’**s perfectly constructed flannel shirts and spangled baby-doll dresses ushered in the second (or is it third?) coming of grunge.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com13/140Peeking behind the closed doors of the imaginative and glamorous “Hotel Louis Vuitton” revealed satin dressing gowns, embellished check coats, and crocodile duffle bags.
14/140Savile Row fabrics—tweed, plaid, Prince of Wales check—are being combined with feminine silhouettes like a dramatically draped shell at Haider Ackermann or with details like degrade sequins.
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com15/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com16/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com17/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com18/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com19/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com20/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com21/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com22/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com23/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com24/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com25/140
26/140A moody sense of romance takes hold with vintage-influenced construction like nipped-waist suits at Oscar de la Renta and Dolce & Gabbana and slinky slip dresses at Marc Jacobs.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com27/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com28/140
Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com29/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com30/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com31/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com32/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com33/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com34/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com35/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com36/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com38/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com39/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com40/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com41/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com42/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com43/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com44/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com45/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com46/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com47/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com48/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com49/140
50/140The ease of a dress seems to have been supplanted, for the moment at least, by the relaxed effortlessness of a supersoft sweater worn with a fluid skirt. The look can evoke a film noir appeal as seen at Louis Vuitton, at-home elegance as seen at The Row, or urban practicality like those at Reed Krakoff.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com51/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com52/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com53/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com54/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com55/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com56/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com57/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com58/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com59/140
Photo: Courtesy of The Row60/140
61/140Just when you thought it had gone to biker heaven, the motorcycle jacket shows up on all the fall runways in every iteration imaginable—sleek at Altuzarra and paired with wild fur gloves, oversized and tinged with a counterculture vibe at Rodarte, quilted at Sacai.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com62/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com63/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com64/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com65/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com66/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com67/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com68/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com69/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com70/140
71/140Like everything else this season, fur is about options, options, options. It’s worn on your arms, your wrists, your hands, around your shoulders or around your neck like a favorite collegiate scarf.
Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com72/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com73/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com74/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com75/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com76/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com77/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com78/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com79/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com80/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com81/140
82/140Even without a major Yves Klein exhibit last year, designers in every city tapped into a shared fascination for all shades of cerulean.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com83/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com84/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com85/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com86/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com87/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com88/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com89/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com90/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com91/140
92/140A way to evoke texture as well as a film-noir sense of romance, velvet is used for day and evening looks that range from soft (Ralph Lauren’s amethyst thirties-style dress) to structured (Christopher Kane’s fantastic suits).
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com93/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com94/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com95/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com96/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com97/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com98/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com99/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com100/140
101/140A rock star attitude represents the flashier side of fashion, personified by young, hip English girls like Cara Delevingne and Edie Campbell. It’s about taking a piece from the runway and making it your own, be it Versace’s crystal harnessed T-shirts, Givenchy’s leather skirts, Rodarte’s tie-dyed tops, or Tom Ford’s wildly printed pants.
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com102/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com103/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com104/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com105/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com106/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com107/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com108/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com109/140
Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com110/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com111/140
112/140This isn’t minimalism for minimalism’s sake. The new discreet chic has a distinct point of view, whether the sophistication of a crisp, austere jacket and A-line skirt at Proenza Schouler or the quietly pretty wool dress (with matching wrap and matching bag) at Céline.
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com113/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com114/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com115/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com116/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com117/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com118/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com119/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com120/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com121/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com122/140
123/140The notion of evening that revolvess around a strapless, mermaid silhouette is one that could use shaking up. Imagine how much more exciting nights out would be were women of all ages to wear clean modern looks like Alexander Wang’s supremely elegant white tunic and pants or Narciso Rodriguez’s voluminous, metallic tank.
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com124/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com125/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri.com126/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com127/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com128/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com129/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com130/140
Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com131/140
Photo: Stefano Masse/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com132/140
133/140Entertaining at home is the new luxury, and designers have the dress code figured out. Glamorous dressing gowns and pajamas are elevated with crystal brooches and layered under street-friendly, oversize overcoats.
Photo: Monica Feudi/FuediGuaineri.com134/140
Photo: Marcus Tondo/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com135/140
Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com136/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com137/140
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com138/140
Photo: Monica Feudi/FuediGuaineri.com139/140
Photo: Courtesy of The Row140/140
