Vogue’s Menswear Editor Picks the Best Looks of the Ongoing Spring 2021 Shows

Although the ongoing men’s spring 2021 season was short on resources that would allow designers to reach their full creative potential and dreams, credit is due to those that buckled down during a time of great timult. Designers worked tirelessly to rise to the challenges of the day and showed us new ways to connect with fashion, whether that was through animations, virtual reality, or elevated films. They did so with both with an awareness of the times and with the tireless support of fashion organizations like the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the British Fashion Council, France’s Fédération de la Mode, and Italy’s Camera Della Moda. 

Collectively, the clothes shown during this menswear season were ones of visual experimentation with a hint of sweet darkness. My highlights are: the artistic expression of Hugo Boss’ florals with William Farr, Marni’s painted strokes, electric theatrics at both Maison Margiela and Thom Browne, the dancers at Isabel Marant, the visually transcending videos by Raf Simons and Anthony Vaccarello, and the one-of-the-kind collectsibles brought to us by Loewe’s show in a box. 

Lastly, as this fashion month moved to find new ways to connect with audiences, we solemnly turn the page with the death of one of the original visionaries, Kenzo Takada, a master of vibrant design and lover of optimism. A true leader in our community who knew, better than anyone, what optimism for the future is all about.