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Photos: Warhorse

Photographed by David Sims
1/10
Freedom of Movement
The Great War released women from the Edwardian-era corset as well as from full, trailing skirts, which became simpler and straighter because of fabric shortages, ushering in a new era of fashion.
Maison Martin Margiela cotton sweater with attached leather gloves, $1,390; Maison Martin Margiela boutiques. Carolina Herrera wool skirt, $2,290; Carolina Herrera, NYC.
On Irvine: War Horse costumes, designed by Joanna Johnston, throughout.
Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington.
Photographed by David Sims
2/10
I Spy . . .
. . . skin in ways explicit (a deep-plunge back) and covert (a peekaboo lace channel).
Nina Ricci stretch-wool dress; net-a-porter.com.

Photographed by David Sims
3/10
New Perspective
Prior to entering women’s wardrobes in the early 20th century, the sweater was primarily about function rather than fashion. Not so Balenciaga’s modern version, in which Nicolas Ghesquière weaves faux-leather ribbons into an optical checkerboard print.
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière wool sweater with whipstitched seams ($2,950) and silk skirt ($3,150); Balenciaga, NYC.
Photographed by David Sims
4/10
Soldiering On
The exaggerated shoulder has undergone many changes over time but never fails to telegraph power and boldness. Irvine’s jacket decoration signals its own might.
Miu Miu wool-crepe blouse ($990) and skirt ($745); select Miu Miu boutiques.
BEAUTY NOTE
Bold arches come easy with Estée Lauder’s Automatic Brow Pencil Duo, a double-ended tool with color on one side and a blending brush on the other.
Photographed by David Sims
5/10
Counter Strategy
A balance of tough and tender: an armor-like bomber jacket topping a long, body-skimming polka-dot skirt.
Marc Jacobs embossed-lambskin jacket with fox collar ($4,995) and double-face wool skirt ($1,400); Marc Jacobs, NYC.

Photographed by David Sims
6/10
Undercover Operation
The double-breasted, full-length military coat offers a classic response to the season’s utilitarian mood (and a sleek alternative to the ubiquitous parka).
Dior wool, angora, and cashmere felt coat; Dior, NYC.
Photographed by David Sims
7/10
A Breed Apart
Stage actor Jeremy Irvine was plucked from relative obscurity to star in Steven Spielberg’s film adaptation (out next month) of the West End and Broadway hit War Horse as a young man on a quest to bring home his beloved horse from the front lines. “I love acting,” he says. “I don’t know many industries where you can go straight from the bottom to choosing the work you want to do.”
Photographed by David Sims
8/10
Rock Steady
Women entering the war economy took to pants as a practical measure, setting the stage for the postwar garçonne look. Today’s jodhpurs are as at home ambling around the countryside as they are racing about town.
Ralph Lauren Black Label cotton shirt, $298; ralphlauren.com.
Ralph Lauren Blue Label riding pants, $345; select Ralph Lauren stores. Hermès boots.

Photographed by David Sims
9/10
Powers of Persuasion
Rick Owens makes a convincing argument for reimagining the long line in an authoritative rather than amorous way.
Rick Owens wool sweater ($1,918), cotton skirt ($1,280), and leather gloves; Rick Owens, NYC. Ann Demeulemeester boots.
Photographed by David Sims
10/10
Cinematic Sweep
Hundreds of yards of raw-edged tulle make up the train of Sarah Burton’s ethereal, epic halter dress, tumbling like a cascading waterfall.
Alexander McQueen embroidered tulle–and–pleated organza dress.
In this story: hair, Guido for Redken; makeup, Diane Kendal for Sunday Riley. Horses from the Devil’s Horsemen.