In the most recent episode of Go Ask Anna, our freewheeling video series dedicated to all things AWOK’d, Vogue’s Editor in Chief called jewelry “the most uplifting thing a woman can own.”
Of course, choosing that uplifting piece all comes down to personality—and, more often than not, personal history. To that end, we spoke to 10 jewelry designers across the globe about the significance behind their designs. Their stories are all different—some of their baubles are borne from childhood, signifiers of security, odes to mothers and fathers; while others are imbued with the spirit of bygone eras—but each represents something powerful and personal. Read on to discover the ways in which history inspires them, no matter their geographic starting points.
Alighieri from the U.K.
Longtime Londoner Rosh Mahtani traces her design trademark—layered charms and bracelets—to her earliest childhood memory, explaining that the clinking sound of stacked bangles at the door used to signal her mother’s return from work each day. Her pieces are effectively a roadmap of her experiences, what she considers a “bric-à-brac anthology” of her life.Axenoff from Russia
Pyotr Axenoff’s artistic inspiration comes from Russian greats; at a young age, he was enthralled by Tchaikovsky’s compositions, Pushkin’s novels, and the ballet costumes of Pavlova and Nijinsky. His showroom, which is situated within the mansion central to Tolstoy’s War and Peace, features opulent designs fit for a Romanoff.
.jpg)
.jpg)
Nikos Koulis from Greece
Nikos Koulis finds inspiration in the iconic grandeur of Greek architecture. “Blending forms and materials, interpreting spirits and traditions, chasing the new and revering the past,” Koulis explains, “are all elements of the Greek identity and are reflected in my creations.” As a result, his designs are geometric and cut with precision: gemstones are set along perfectly symmetrical planes or situated in webs of pristine angles.Selim Mouzannar from Lebanon
Selim Mouzannar’s work is rooted in the historical significance of Beirut, where he was born and raised by a family of jewelers and exposed to traditional techniques of jewelry-making early on. The arresting colors and sculptural form of his designs evoke the energy of Beirut’s fierce history. “The city is a paradox of beauty and violence,” Mouzannar says. “I breathe the soul of Beirut; its energies of freedom, of rebels, of violence, and love run through my blood. Its history is very rich, and if walls could speak, they would tell enchanting stories.”Elie Top from France
Having worked for storied fashion figures like Yves Saint Laurent, Loulous de la Falaise, and Lanvin, Elie Top developed a penchant for the couture aesthetic, but wanted to ground his own high jewelry in modernity. His exacting craftsmanship began to play on baroque and bourgeois conventions. A spherical gold ring, for instance, encases a ruby within a diamond halo, but can be worn open or closed—a bit of tactful engineering that serves to unite the old and new.
.jpg)
Silvia Furmanovich from Brazil
Born in São Paulo to a line of Italian goldsmiths, Silvia Furmanovich spent much of her childhood observing her father’s meticulous work and now attributes her own scrupulous nature to him. Furmanovich’s collectsions are marked not only by technical mastery, but by the infusion of materials from all over the world. Ebony, copper, shells, and bamboo give her designs texture and scope, and reflect the breadth of her travels.Daniela Villegas from L.A. and Mexico
Daniela Villegas cites travel as the key reference for her work. The Los Angeles–based designer situates a love for her native Mexico in the greater context of the world, interlacing personal memories with the elements of nature that have struck her in passing. Her adventurous spirit propels a playfulness; she works in vivid color and with unconventional materials like beetles, porcupine quills, and pebbles.Casa Chiqui from Colombia
Like design contemporaries Furmanovich and Villegas, Colombian socialite Chiqui de Echavarria has spent years circumnavigating the world. Her atelier, headquartered in Cartagena, showcases accessories and furniture that she fell in love with on trips abroad, but is also home to her own line of intricate jewelry. The shop is a notable destination for tourists, spotlighting the global reach and relatability of her designs. Chiqui still roots her practice, however, in the facility of Colombia; every piece is handcrafted by local artisans.
.jpg)
.jpg)
Wald Berlin from Germany
For Joyce Binneboese and Dana Roski of Wald Berlin, inspiration stems from a series of forays into the Berlin fashion world. They began their careers, respectively, as a model and stylist, and from there decided to launch a concept boutique stocking a curated mix of brands. The physical shop became an online store, which then catalyzed the launch of a new venture: a jewelry brand all their own. Their daintily crafted pieces are adorned with freshwater pearls, shells, and precious stones.Codognato from Italy
In 1866, antique dealer Simeone Codognato opened a jewelry shop in Venice, and his son saw a unique opportunity to repurpose jewels discovered on nearby Etruscan digs. Thus the first guard of “Italian Archaeological Goldsmiths” was born. Today, Codognato remains in exactly the same spot, helmed by great-grandson Attilio. He says that his dedication to preserving his ancestral legacy reflects central tenets of Italian culture: reverence for history and family bonds.
.jpg)