A wedding invitation just arrived in the mail. Towards the bottom? A dress code you’ve never seen before: white tie attire.
For some select, elevated occasions, a white tie dress code is still used to indicate the highest level of formality. According to Emily Post, “The white tie dress code indicates that guests are high-caliber, royal, or have high social standing.”
The rare dress code comes with certain and very specific stipulations, making it feel more daunting than the others. Here, we break down the white tie dress code.
What is white tie?
For women—or those wanting a more traditionally feminine look—white tie requires a full-length gown in an evening fabric like silk, chiffon, or velvet. Evening gloves are also welcome, but not required.
For men—or anyone who wants to embrace masculine style—white tie is straightforward, albeit specific. According to the 2010 G.Q. Style Guide, the look comprises a black tailcoat and trousers, worn with a white wing-collared shirt, vest (generally of piqué cotton), and white bow tie. Importantly, white tie requires an evening tailcoat, not a morning coat. “Waist-length in front and knee-length in back, it falls away more sharply than a morning coat, is double-breasted, and is worn at night with white tie,” GQ advises. Emily Post also mentions matching trousers that are adorned with “a single stripe of satin or braid in the U.S.” The outfit, according to the American etiquette authority, should also be accented by white gloves. In an 1885 article in The New York Times, it was noted that men’s watches must conceal their wristwatches: “Those who cannot manage a perfect seclusion for it must leave it at home.”
What is the difference between white tie and black tie?
Black tie leaves far more room for interpretation for all parties. For men, black tie permits a suit or a tuxedo, while white tie demands the black tailcoat and white bowtie brief as explained above.
For women, it’s a bit simpler. Oftentimes, a long dress in evening fabrics suits both dress codes. While, in some instances, a dressed-up cocktail dress can work for black tie, white tie always requires a full-length gown.
For more guidance on the black tie dress code, see our guide here.
What is the history of white tie?
White tie first emerged in the earlier days of the Victorian Era (around 1840), ironically as a more minimalist counter to the more outré evening dress of the day. But, by the beginning of the Gilded Age in America in the 1870s, the sartorial code became the upper class’s go-to for the opera, debutante balls, and any of the fancy-dress parties thrown by socialites of the day. Even as the tailless tuxedo arrived stateside in the 1880s, it only caught on as a look for dinner parties and smaller soirees.
White tie fell out of favor at the onset of World War I. The global strife caused such formal occasions—and fashions—to seem inappropriate. But when the war ended, the world did not return to the white tie fashions of yore. Instead, the tuxedo suit became the outfit of choice for the majority of occasions. Another factor? Growing industrialization. As the United States built up its factories, different options for eveningwear were easier to make.
When do I wear white tie?
Nowadays, the white tie dress code befits the highest, most formal occasions, often steeped in history. Presidential inaugural balls, Le Bal des Débutantes, state dinners, and high society weddings still call for white tie. The 2022 Met Gala, “Gilded Glamour,” set a white tie dress code, a nod to its historical Gilded Age roots.
