For his Fall collectsion, Lucio Vanotti worked on the idea of uniforms, a concept that fascinates designers with a penchant for a rigorous streak. Backstage before the show, he explained how he wanted to blend their severe utility with a sense of elegance and refinement; let’s say, he succeeded. Vanotti is proving to be a consistent designer, who, season after season, is meticulously refining his aesthetic. His calm sense of purpose would make many other young designers jealous.
While staying true to his rational, almost mathematical approach, he infused the collectsion with a few eclectic references, like hip-hop, postmodernism, and new wave. On his mood board, the eccentric design of Ettore Sottsass featured prominently alongside images of couture silhouettes. “I’ve mixed and then filtered the ’80s, the ’90s, and a bit of the ’50s,” he explained. The resulting blend was a cohesive collectsion; the edges of the severe purity the designer favors felt smoothed and more relaxed.
Color also played a part in giving the collectsion a fresh energy, as in an oversize nylon anorak in a bright shade of fuchsia paired with a short skirt, or in a classic sporty bomber in vivid royal blue, its proportions stretched and elongated. It conveyed a modern, elegant vibe. As always with Vanotti, the gender conversation was at play here. The men’s collectsion had the same streamlined allure, built around neat shapes and reconfigured with a confident attitude.
