Winter, so long absent on the East Coast, became the reason for this season. Dressing for the cold was a starting point for Heirlome’s Stephanie Suberville. “I think partly because the weather has been so horrible, there is really a lot of thinking about wearability and function,” the designer said. Suberville’s idea of cozy wasn’t sloppy, though: She cut a double-breasted coat of the softest camel hair to fit long and lean on the body. A wool-cotton belted funnel-neck coat had a water-resistant finish.
For fall there was an emphasis on separates for day, which was reflective of Suberville designing what she’d like to wear. That included texture in the form of a bouclé, tassels at the neck of a trim blazer, and deep fringes at the hem of a bolero-length capelet. A top in a similar length was cut to flare at the back, with one version made in paper-thin leather.
Suberville continued to work with folding techniques and employed them on a pair of Japanese-inspired pants. Another point of consistency was her collaborating with a printmaker. This season it was the Mexican artist Angelica Morelos, who created a conversational print and a geometric pattern that Suberville had made into a jacquard.
Among the strongest pieces this season were the jersey options for evening, including a draped gown with a kind of in-built stomacher and a two-piece ensemble with a lampshade-shaped skirt.
