Toga designer Yasuko Furuta begins each collectsion with three prompting words. For fall 2026: Pull. Crumple. Pressed. The idea, says Furata, was to explore how fabrics develop and adapt, creating clothes that reflect how we as people resist or bend to a rapidly changing social landscape.
Taking place at a historic military drill hall in the storied and scholarly Bloomsbury neighborhood, the show cycled through a succession of looks that cast gauzy cottons, flowy silks, and dense woolen fabrics against diaphanous plastics, a shock of gold tinsel, and rainbow-dappled oil-slick fuzz. Buttoned-up shirts, plaid Westwoodian suits, and tweedy skirts were wrapped and cinched with a trio of knotted knits around the waist, and hemlines were hitched up with shimmery Perspex brooches and pins to reveal slivers of sequins and textures. Body-skimming knit tops bloomed with cobalt and vermilion beaded cutouts on the waist. The clinking embellishments and rustling ruffles on the runway were very, very pleasing.
Every outfit contained some kind of maverick modularity, whether a pair of leather motorcycle pants chopped at the knee and sprouting flared underlayers or elegant elbow-length furry cuffs. Suit pants were slashed and fastened with buttons for the potential of suit short shorts. One golden furry bomber featured shearling lapels to create the illusion of an expertly styled two-jacket layering situation. A drop-waist dress, worn over jeans from Toga’s second Wrangler collaboration, featured a cozy, nicotine-y faux-fur with pockets like a kangaroo pelt. As always, the collectsion moved fluidly from womenswear to menswear—the “skant” or “skouser” is for everybody, and we’re all brooch on the brain. (Guests were gifted a shimmery pin and socks.)
Each season, Toga so ably captures the “happy accident” school of dressing. A coated translucent green trench was breezily layered over a fuzzy cream coat, and a tightly bound ruffled cotton looked almost feathery when it walked, sitting low on the hips like a ladylike pannier and adorned lovingly with more emerald and cobalt blue brooches. The familiar was made frenetic, and there was a rambunctious yet refined sensuality that is so identifiably Toga.
