As well as being closely related to the season’s menswear offering, this Undercover womenswear collectsion was also presented in the showroom: Jun Takahashi is on a show sabbatical while he plots other productions. The clothes were highly quotidian and came spiced by a contrasting seasoning of tweeness and toughness.
Wavily seamed cashmere “suiting” in black featured brass chain details and back-to-front button closures on the jacket. A pair of jeans worn under a marled oat-toned cashmere coat was embellished on one leg with a Cindy Sherman portrait that was further emphasized with beads. Other jeans were patched ’90s style with silk flower prints. More flowers garlanded the black background of a silk zip-up coat and matching snuggly scarf: As you snuggled into it visually, you spotted jarring details in the print, including a Bambi-like fawn’s face with redacted eyes.
A bomber in floral topstitching was overlaid with sequins to deepen the bouquet’s texture. The same fabric was used to fashion a mumsy tote with the Undercover mantra “chaos/balance” debossed into its nylon webbings handle. There was a great shiny-surfaced black goat-leather dock jacket with furry collar details, strapped pointy pumps with a polka-dot lining, a cashmere hoodie with a ragged double-faced seam from armpit to kangaroo pocket, and a raw-silk pressed army-surplus-style parka.
Again Takahashi presented plenty of grafted outerwear. Examples included a brown chore jacket with a white chore jacket apparently layered beneath it, a black peak-lapel overcoat with a black judo-style robe similarly arranged, and an MA-1 shearling mashup. There were some cool wide-leg jeans with black satin ruffles peeking from the pockets. This collectsion finely reflected the complexity of the every day.
