Growing up, there was no one that I was more obsessed with than Sofia Coppola. The New York-born daughter of Hollywood legends Francis Ford and Eleanor Coppola had directed some of my favorite films as a teenager: The Virgin Suicides, Lost in Translation, Marie Antoinette, Somewhere. She was also the reason I aspired to be a director, and actually thought it was possible as a woman, in a world before Kathryn Bigelow became the first woman to win the best-director Oscar.
But there was also the matter of her style. Here was an It-girl who shrugged off that mantle—one with a penchant for laidback, understated looks, who also always had a certain polish and never-less-than-impeccable taste. Through the ’90s, she lived in silk slip dresses, turning up to glitzy LA premieres in flats and running back to New York as soon as she could to stroll the city in denim and cashmere. There was an ease to her ensembles, a kind of careless intellectualism, but also a very precise understanding of and appreciation for fashion.
This comparatively carefree heyday is about to be revisited in Marc by Sofia, the auteur’s first-ever documentary, which will chronicle the rise of her longtime friend and collaborator Marc Jacobs. Billed as both a highly personal love letter and an ode to ’90s New York, it’s sure to be crammed with swoon-worthy fashion moments, courtesy of the pair and their glittering circle of friends.
Ahead of its premiere at the Venice Film Festival, we revisit 36 of the best throwback photos of Sofia, trackings her evolution from industry scion to stylish young actor, model, and designer, and eventually, one of the most accomplished filmmakers of her generation.
Photo: Getty Images1/361975
A four-year-old Sofia Coppola, already sporting enviable bangs, accompanied by her father, Francis, and brothers, Gian-Carlo and Roman, on the set of the late-night talk show The Tomorrow Show.
Photo: Getty Images2/361979
Navigating the Cannes Film Festival from her father’s shoulders, aged eight, the year he scooped the Palme d’Or for Apocalypse Now.
Photo: Getty Images3/361979
At Cannes, soaking up the sun in a red T-shirt and denim, alongside her father, mother, brothers, and grandfather.
Photo: Getty Images4/361982
Aged 10 and performing with friends Jenny and Jilian Gersten in suits, bow ties, top hats, and canes at the premiere of Francis Ford Coppola’s One From the Heart.
Photo: Getty Images5/361987
Suddenly all grown up, at 16, with Karl Lagerfeld at the fall 1988 Chanel show. Coppola famously interned with the brand, and would collaborate with them for decades to come.
Photo: Getty Images6/361990
A 19-year-old Coppola photographed to promote The Godfather Part III. She famously stepped into the part of Mary Corleone in the third installment of her father’s era-defining mafia saga after Winona Ryder dropped out at the very last minute due to nervous exhaustion. For better and for worse, it put her firmly on the Hollywood map.
Photo: Getty Images7/361990
At a party for The Godfather Part III in what would quickly become the trademark Sofia Coppola look: free-flowing locks, dangly earrings, and all-black suiting.
Photo: Getty Images8/361991
At the 48th Golden Globe Awards in a bejeweled black dress, celebrating The Godfather Part III’s seven nominations.
Photo: Getty Images9/361991
Sporting a far more ’80s look than we are used to seeing her in, with a bouffant and giant pearl accessories, Coppola sits down with Johnny Carson for The Tonight Show.
Photo: Getty Images10/361991
Accompanied by her brother Roman for the 43rd Directors Guild of America Awards, where their father was nominated for The Godfather Part III.
Photo: Getty Images11/361991
In black lace for the 63rd Academy Awards, where The Godfather Part III received seven nods.
Photo: Getty Images12/361992
In all black, with hot pink Gucci loafers, for the 7th Independent Spirit Awards in Los Angeles (where the 20-year-old acted as a presenter) with her then-boyfriend, Keanu Reeves. The pair met when the latter was filming Francis Ford Coppola’s Bram Stoker’s Dracula, before splitting up later in 1992.
Photo: Getty Images13/361992
At a screening of Steve Buscemi’s In the Soup in LA.
Photo: Getty Images14/361993
Another loose, ’90s, monochrome look for a New York party. That year, Coppola began studying painting at the California Institute of the Arts.
Photo: Getty Images15/361994
Hitting the runway at Donna Karan’s New York Fashion Week show, aged 22.
Photo: Getty Images16/361994
Sporting an off-duty uniform comprised of a white minidress with polished black leather Mary Janes, a black cardigan, and chunky silver jewelry the year she dropped out of college and started the clothing label Milkfed.
Photo: Getty Images17/361994
Hanging out with a 20-year-old Kate Moss at a New York fashion party.
Photo: Getty Images18/361994
In a cropped, lightweight knit thrown over a silver mini slip dress for the 13th Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards in New York—the epitome of laidback, low-key ’90s red carpet dressing.
Photo: Getty Images19/361994
A longer silver slip dress, this time with a soft grey knit casually wrapped around it, for a LA gala.
Photo: Getty Images20/361995
Now 24, Coppola attends the LA premiere of Unzipped, the Isaac Mizrahi documentary featuring Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, et al, in another black slip dress and glittering jewelry.
Photo: Getty Images21/361995
Naked dressing, Sofia Coppola style, for the MTV Video Music Awards.
Photo: Getty Images22/361996
In winter whites and denim with director Zoe Cassavetes, while visiting Diane von Furstenberg’s New York studio.
Photo: Getty Images23/361996
Back at Cannes with her parents and brother Roman, the year Francis Ford Coppola served as the festival’s jury president.
Photo: Getty Images24/361996
In a Penny Lane coat, denim, and boots for the LA premiere of The People vs. Larry Flynt.
Photo: Getty Images25/361997
A 26-year-old Coppola at an LA fashion show honouring Tom Ford.
Photo: Getty Images26/361998
In a strapless black top, skirt, and sandals for the LA premiere of Studio 54. That year, Coppola made her directorial debut with the now iconic short film Lick the Star, a stylish black and white romp that paved the way for everything that followed.
Photo: Getty Images27/361999
In a monochrome printed top and denim for the Giorgio Armani show in LA the year she released The Virgin Suicides.
Photo: Getty Images28/361999
Gloriously casual in a white shirt, black skirt, and slides for the LA premiere of David Lynch’s The Straight Story.
Photo: Getty Images29/362000
Wearing a one-shouldered burgundy confection for the 52nd Directors Guild Awards, the night Francis Ford Coppola served as a presenter and Sofia’s then-husband, Spike Jonze, was nominated for directing Being John Malkovich.
Photo: Getty Images30/362000
At the Academy Awards nominees’ party with Spike Jonze, a best-director hopeful for Being John Malkovich, in a white tank worn under a sheer shirt, a beige pencil skirt, and a Birkin.
Photo: Getty Images31/362000
In denim and a light knit for the 15th Independent Spirit Awards.
Photo: Getty Images32/362000
In a diaphanous polka dot dress for an LA dinner party, aged 29.
Photo: Getty Images33/362000
At a Marc Jacobs store opening in New York, in a bejeweled cocktail dress. The following year, Marc chose Sofia to be the face of his brand’s fragrance Daisy.
Photo: Getty Images34/362001
Supporting her father at the New York premiere of Apocalypse Now Redux, in a delicate polka dot blouse.
Photo: Getty Images35/362001
Dressed up for the Golden Satellite Awards, where her father received the prize for Outstanding Artistic Contribution to the Entertainment Industry.
Photo: Getty Images36/362001
Going all-out (the understated, Sofia Coppola way) in glittering black tulle for the Vanity Fair Oscar Party. Three years later, she would take home an Oscar herself for Lost in Translation’s screenplay.
