Magazine

Nicolas Ghesquière, Olivier Theyskens, Hedi Slimane and More Are Changing the Course of Fashion

By Sally SingerPhotography by Steven Meisel
  • Vronique Branquinho Hedi Slimane Hussein Chalayan Filip Arickx Nicolas Ghesquiere An Vandevorst Lawrence Steele Miguel...
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    The Style Council

    Twenty-first-century fashion-makers, left to right: Véronique Branquinho, Hedi Slimane, Hussein Chalayan, Filip Arickx, Nicolas Ghesquière, An Vandevorst, Lawrence Steele, Miguel Adrover, Viktor Horsting, Roberto Menichetti, Rolf Snoeren, Olivier Theyskens, Josephus Thimister, and Junya Watanabe.

    Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington

  • Olivier Theyskens 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    Blow Up

    Olivier Theyskens’s silhouettes range from the sublimely overblown to the sharply tailored. Center: Blue trench, skirt, and crinoline dress by Olivier Theyskens. Barneys New York. Background: Black leather top and pants. Black leather jacket and skirt. All by Olivier Theyskens. Saks Fifth Avenue.

  • Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    Simple Minds

    Nicolas Ghesquière is a dyed-in-the-wool minimalist.From left: Rust velvet top and suede skirt. Barneys New York. Ruched top and pants. Caron Cherry, Bal Harbour, FL. Rust leather jacket and wool pants. Blake, Chicago. Wool turtleneck and cotton pants. Kirna Zabête, SoHo NYC. Black trench. Bergdorf Goodman. Flesh top and pants. Laura Urbinati, Los Angeles. Black coat, shirt, and zip pants. Emphatics, Pittsburgh. All, Balenciaga “Le Dix” by Nicolas Ghesquière.

  • Veronique Branquinho 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    Optical Conclusions

    Véronique Branquinho’s New Wave–influenced collectsion accented patterns. From left: Trench (about $1,600), vest (about $460), shirt (about $200), and pants (about $500). Sweater (about $500), skirt (about $300), and pants (about $230). Tunic (about $700), turtleneck (about $190), and pants (about $500). Jacket (about $730), turtleneck (about $150), and skirt (about $600). All by Véronique Branquinho. Barneys New York.

  • Lawrence Steele 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    Solid Gold

    Lawrence Steele’s fall 2000 looks are all about sensuality and glitz. Gold printed camel coat by Lawrence Steele, about $1,825. Stanley Korshak, Dallas.

  • Burberry Prorsum by Roberto Menichetti 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    Extended Forecast

    Roberto Menichetti takes Burberry’s image beyond the mac. From left: Cashmere roll-neck sweater, about $585. Leather reversible trench, vest (about $1,600), shearling kilt (about $1,680). All by Burberry Prorsum Collection. Burberry boutiques.

  • Hussein Chalayan 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    Draftsman’s Contract

    Hussein Chalayan conducts architectural experiments in volume and form. From far left: Sheepskin mitten coat, about $1,595. Kirna Zabête, SoHo NYC. Black angel dress. Blake, Chicago. Black dress, $1,305. Bergdorf Goodman. Swing-back coat, about $1,390. Bergdorf Goodman. Topiary dress. Swingback coat. Linda Dresner, NYC. Wooden bench, Wyeth New York.

  • Josephus Thimister July 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    Fell to Earth

    Josephus Thimister’s recent work is very earthy—with an organic, aged effect. From left: Cream silk coat lined in white mink by Josephus Thimister Couture. Brown shearling coat with belt by Thimister. Jeffrey, NYC.

  • Viktor Rolf 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    America Line

    Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf turned out an Americana-inspired collectsion. From left: Black jacket (about $810), white shirt (about $205), and gray pants (about $345). Black tuxedo jacket (about $1,145) and pants (about $565) with white shirt (about $630). Black shirt (about $663) and white skirt (about $347). All by Viktor & Rolf. Barneys New York.

  • Miguel Adrover 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    When Worlds Collide

    Miguel Adrover’s “Midtown” collectsion marries Upper East Side grace and south–of–Fourteenth Street nerve. From left: Navy sweatshirt (about $275) and pants (about $495). Inverted trouser turtleneck and pants. Crochet top and floral printed skirt (about $625). Skirt at Barneys New York. Renaissance velvet coat. Hand-knit sweater (about $660) and handkerchief skirt (about $495). Barneys New York. All by Miguel Adrover. Burberry raincoat as interpreted by Miguel Adrover.

  • A. F. Vandevorst 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    Town & Country

    A. F. Vandevorst’s English-equestrian silhouettes are given a rough, urban edge. From left: Leather coat (about $1,754), corduroy jacket (about $588), and pants (about $190). Leather and wool sweater (about $507) and wool skirt (about $456). Army coat (about $1,010), turtleneck (about $226), and skirt (about $271). Barneys New York. All by A. F. Vandevorst.

  • Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Homme by Hedi Slimane 2000
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    Back to Black

    Hedi Slimane has made the Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche menswear line a cult favorite of hip Parisiennes. From left: Black cashmere turtleneck (about $895) and wool pants (about $410). Black cashmere and wool turtleneck (about $200) and wool pants (about $685). All by Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Homme.

  • Comme des Garcons by Junya Watanabe
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    Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2000
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    Rainbow Coalition

    Cyberage technique meets traditional craftsmanship in Junya Watanabe’s confetti-bright cocktail dresses. From left: Purple top and dress. Fuchsia top and dress. Red top and dress. Floral-print inverted ruffle coat. Floral jacket and skirt. Beige multilayered dress. Turquoise accordion coat. Beige bubble dress. All by Junya Watanabe. Comme des Garçons Boutique, NYC.

    _In this story:

    Hair: Garren of Garren New York Salon; Makeup: Pat McGrath_