Party season is upon us—and so too is the influx of outfit conundrums it brings. Allow Dress Code to demystify and debunk what to wear when and where, and how to wear it, as advised by those whose innate style never fails to inspire and influence.
Whether the conversation relates to interiors, food, or fashion, the name Athena Calderone is shorthand for a certain calibre. The longtime New Yorker has one lengthy business card description, thanks to her concurrent roles as a designer, creative director, author, and the founder of Studio Athena Calderone and the inspiration-filled platform EyeSwoon. Whatever discipline she is turning her hand to, the common denominator is a level of taste and discernment. Ahead of the holiday season, Calderone has also stepped into model and muse mode for rag & bone—curating the brand’s “gift of style” gift guide. Her gift to us? Some straightforward and actionable advice for how to put one foot in front of the other when it comes to a memorable party-ready outfit.
What's your process for getting dressed? Do you make an effort even when you don't have to go anywhere?
My days are very full lately, and can take me all over town—from a prototype review with my design team to a site meeting with contractors or a visit to a vendor to pull material samples—so my outfit needs to reflect that. Versatile enough for when I’m on the go, yet elevated for meetings or an event. I’ll go for something like a tailored pair of trousers with a simple cashmere sweater. I definitely like to make an effort. An outfit that strikes a thoughtful balance between sophisticated and sexy. When I’m dressed well, I feel confident, and trust me, that sentiment goes a long way on long days.
When you want to feel confident—what boxes does your outfit need to tick?
I’d say it needs to tick the tailored, simple, and timeless boxes. Most days, I lean on a simple, reliable uniform. For me, that’s always a crisp white button-down and classic, unfussy, and easy denim. That makes getting dressed feel instinctive while taking one decision off my plate.
A breakfast event pops up for tomorrow. What’s a failsafe outfit for an early morning when you want to feel polished?
Tailored trousers paired with a belt, a simple crew neck sweater, and a heeled boot is a timeless look—elevated and professional yet approachable. I also think a classic trench coat over your shoulders really brings everything together.
What type of dress code fills you with dread? And what’s your workaround for that?
I have no issues with any dress code category—give me black tie, cocktail, and so on, and I will find something that fits the bill! I wouldn’t say dread, per se, but I do have issues with certain silhouettes: puff sleeves, tiered or fabric-heavy skirts, or looks that are generally bright and kitschy are not my thing.
A luncheon is on the calendar. How might you approach putting together a look for that?
It depends on the person hosting the luncheon, but I think a beautiful knit dress or a structured blazer and trouser set both have a smart-casual feel about them, while also being comfortable enough to eat in. You don’t want to wear anything too tight or restricting.
The 5 p.m. slump has hit, but a dinner party is on the cards. What will energize you when shifting from day to night?
My Mary J Blige, Rihanna, and Ashanti playlist—and some sips of Mezcal. I make the process of getting ready a party, too. It works every time!
What are your thoughts on costume parties? All in with the DIY, or politely decline?
I really don’t like costume parties. Even Halloween is hard for me—and I wouldn’t say I’m all in with the DIY either [laughs]. This year, my husband, Vic, played a Halloween set, so I pulled out a dress from my closet that had a spider-web effect and went moody and dark, à la 1990s goth, for the makeup. There are definitely ways to make a costume party feel like “you” even when the theme might not initially.
You’ve no time to think about what to wear for an after-work gathering—what outfit formula always works for you in a bind?
If I’m at The Atelier in the city, then I usually have a few things I keep on a rack in our back room for occasions just like this, because you never know when you’ll need to make a quick outfit change. Typically, something strapless with a drop waist, or a chic pant suit is a winning outfit formula for an after-work gathering in a pinch.
What’s your read on cocktail attire, in general? What’s an outfit you tend to rinse and repeat?
I love cocktail attire and there are a few failsafe outfits I reach for: floor-sweeping silk gowns, backless slips, or a strapless column maxi dress.
What about black tie? Do you like to take risks, or play it pretty safe?
I keep it classic. For my birthday dinner in Rome, I wore a stunning floor-grazing backless sequin gown in a beautiful creamy-porcelain hue. The risk was in exposing most of my back, but the neutral tone kept it classy.
What after-dark pieces get the most wear in your wardrobe, year after year?
I continuously pull out my late ’90s and early 2000s Dolce & Gabbana pieces. Timeless, sexy, and versatile for an event or for the club. I can style a vintage structured corset or mini skirt with something contemporary, and they feel fresh and still classic, and of course, dance floor-friendly.
Do you have a favorite party-ready piece that always inspires conversation with strangers?
I designed a pair of rock crystal drop earrings lined with a delicate strip of diamonds earlier this year, and they’ve become constant conversation starters. Their long, linear silhouette gracefully elongates the neck, evoking the elegance of a bygone era.
What’s always in your evening bag?
A Nars lip pencil in Dragon Girl, Aquaphor chapstick, and a rogue credit card—no wallet. Oh, and doggie bags!
