Photos: ©Malick Sibidé, courtesy of Jack Shainman Gallery, New York; Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv1/15Marques’Almeida x Malick SibidéThe studio of the late Malian photographer Sibidé, noted Vogue’s Chioma Nnadi, “was more like a creative clubhouse than a studio. That sense of togetherness is totally in line with the collectsive spirit of Marques’Almeida, so it comes as no surprise that the pair had many of his images pinned to their mood board for Fall.”
Photos: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv; Getty Images (x2)2/15Saint Laurent x Vincent van GoghThe art-loving Yves Saint Laurent re-created museum-worthy pieces in cloth for his Spring 1988 Haute Couture show. For his Fall outing at the house, Anthony Vaccarello applied a single bloom to a fierce, thigh-grazing LBD. In so doing, he used, said Mark Holgate, “the very last of the Lesage embroidery that had been originally commissioned by Yves himself.” Irises, 1889, Vincent Van Gogh, J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles
Photos: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv; Getty Images3/15Valentino x the Memphis GroupPierpaolo Piccioli’s disparate references for Fall were Victoriana and the 1980s Italian postmodern design and architecture produced by the Ettore Sottsass–led Memphis Group. Ivory Side Table, designer Ettore Sottsass for Memphis Milano, 1985
Photos: Umberto Fratini / Indigital.tv; Getty Images4/15Stella McCartney x George StubbsAn avid equestrienne, McCartney referenced Stubbs’s 1770 painting, A Horse Frightened by a Lion, revisiting a theme she used in a Chloé collectsion back in the day. A Horse Frightened by a Lion, 1770, George Stubbs
Photos: Bridgeman / Indigital.tv5/15Cédric Charlier x Kazimir MalevichAmy Verner traced the “chromatic geometries” she saw on Charlier’s Fall runway back to the designer’s “awe of Les Sportifs, a painting completed in the early 1930s by Kazimir Malevich.” Sportsmen, 1928–32, Kazimir Severinovich Malevich
Photos: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv; Alamy6/15Sonia Rykiel x Niki de Saint PhalleHaving discovered a vintage photo of the chic Franco-American artist (and sometime Vogue model) De Saint Phalle, Julie de Libran infused her Fall collectsion for Sonia Rykiel with references to the artist’s personal style and vibrant sculptures. “Picking up the Nanas’s vivid shades,” reported Vogue’s Nicole Phelps, “De Libran used them as accent points.” Nana Santé by Niki de Saint Phalle
Photos: REX; © Shawn Brackbill / Courtesy of Matthew Adams Dolan7/15Matthew Adams Dolan x John Lennon and Yoko OnoFor Fall, Dolan experimented with using “typically outdoorsy, utilitarian fabrics and making them into inside outfits.” Some of these featured quilts hanging down models’ backs. “Dolan got to his world-of-interiors theme,” wrote Vogue’s Steff Yotka, “through John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s [1969] ‘bed-in for peace,’ explaining that in times of chaos, a sense of comfort goes a long way.” John Lennon and Yoko Ono in BedPeace protest at the Amsterdam Hilton Hotel, the Netherlands, 1969
Photos: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv; REX8/153.1 Phillip Lim x James Turrell“Lately, the offbeat style of women who inhabit the world of galleries and museums has been influencing designers,” noted Chioma Nnadi, reviewing 3.1 Phillip Lim’s Fall show, where both the set and some of the printed motifs paid homage to the work of the light-obsessed American artist Turrell. Albion Barn, James Turrell, Oxford, United Kingdom, Studio Seilern Architects, 2013
Photos: Bridgeman; Umberto Fratini / Indigital.tv9/15Victoria Beckham x Paul NashVB’s Fall collectsion featured lots of blazers and skirts. It was enlivened with a palette and patterns inspired by a recent Nash exhibit at the Tate Britain. The Menin Road, 1919, Paul Nash, Imperial War Museum, London, U.K.
Photos: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv; Alamy10/15Proenza Schouler x Jackson PollockJack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez didn’t name-check Pollock, but their splatter tees seemed to nod to the work of the famous Abstract Expressionist. This tribute to an American artist seems fitting, as the duo plans to take their show on the road and present in Paris next season. Number 18., Jackson Pollock, 1950
Photos: ©Horst P. Horst / courtesy of Staley-Wise Gallery; Yannis Vlamis / Indigital.tv11/15Hermès x Horst P. HorstShown alongside the archival scarf prints that Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski sent down the runway at Hermès was a novelty pattern of hands, inspired by a 1941 photograph by Vogue contributor Horst P. Horst.
Photos: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv; Bridgeman12/15Erdem x Ottoman MiniaturesFor Fall, Erdem Moralioglu imagined that his Turkish and English great-grandmothers had met and mixed British motifs with Islamic ones. “The most beautiful of all the cross-pollinations,” opined Vogue’s Sarah Mower, “was the meld of English flowers and Islamic miniature painting.” Interior of the Kubbealti Tower and Topkapi Palace Gardens, Turkish School (16th century)
Photos: REX; Indigital.tv13/15Rahul Mishra x Paul Signac“The human hand, what it can achieve, stretches to infinity,” stated Mishra postshow. Indian artisans painstakingly re-created artworks like Signac’s 1909 painting, The Pine Tree at St. Tropez, for the designer. “Instead of color and brush,” Mishra told Amy Verner, “it was thread and needle.” The Pine Tree at St. Tropez, Paul Signac, 1909
Photos: Umberto Fratini / Indigital.tv / AP Images14/15Acne Studios x Paul KleeBest known for his paintings, Klee also created rustic puppets for his young son Felix, and it was these that were the starting point for Jonny Johansson and team’s Fall outing. While the Swede is “not the first to draw on a homespun naïveté,” noted Chioma Nnadi, he’s certainly on trend, as “a more hand-hewn and imperfect idea of femininity has been percolating in fashion for the last few seasons.”
Photos: Marie Clerin / courtesy of the artists. Identity + Refuge Pull Chaussette, 1995 ©Lucy and Jorge Orta.; Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv15/15Pringle of Scotland x Lucy OrtaIn addition to reissuing a ’60s floral print from the house archive, Pringle design director Fran Stringer collaborated with Orta. Inspired by the British artist’s work, Identity + Refuge, the presentation included patchwork sweaters made of vintage argyles. “In a show that was, in many ways, about the past,” reported Maya Singer, “the incorporation of worn materials had a lovely resonance.”
