The fall collectsions were dominated by a sense of energy and immediacy that speaks to the high-speed mobility of the digital age. All the functional outerwear and sporty footwear that we had come to rely on were elevated in a myriad of stylish ways—this is fashion that’s made to walk off the runway and right onto the street. Why not trade your biker jacket for shearling, and your lace-up oxford shoes for a polished white sneaker? The swinging beat of sixties London is alive and kicking, as is the vibrancy of Art Nouveau. Take your pick from the galleries of instantly gratifying new clothes coming out next season. The time for fashion that’s real and exciting is now.
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Photo: Gianni Pucci/Indigitalimages.com2/166In **Francisco Costa’**s hands the cozy allure of sweater dressing took on a remarkable architectural quality, and came through in textural jackets and coats.
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com3/166Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez made a thrilling case for the more challenging buzzwords in our design lexicon—the artificial, the industrial, and the synthetic—with a collectsion of pumped-up voluminous coats and dresses in exquisite modern fabrics.
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold/Indigitalimages.com4/166**Michael Kors’**s coastal California–inspired collectsion tapped into the relaxed attitude that pervaded the shows last month: think delicious, cozy knits, oversized furs, full peasants skirts, and a comfy leather slip-on fisherman’s sandal.
Photo: Marcus Tondo/Indigitalimages.com5/166The British designer showed the breadth of his talent with a truly major collectsion that brought together a sense of variety, practicality, beauty, and imagination.
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold/Indigitalimages.com6/166Designer and soon-to-be CEO Christopher Bailey is leading the charge for artisanal fashion, and the most eye-catching looks in the collectsion were finished with hand-painted touches reminiscent of the Bloomsbury set.
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com7/166The graphic schemes and jarring colors of the early twentieth-century Constructivist period at Prada were in harmony with eminently wearable Germanic chic clothes: narrow silk scarves, slyly sexy thirties/seventies dresses, sloppy V-neck sweaters, wedge-heeled boots, and strappy sandals.
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold/Indigitalimages.com8/166The design duo explored a medieval Sicilian fantasy for fall, and whimsical dresses and delightfully elaborate accessories vibrated at the heart and soul of the label’s own history in fashion.
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com9/166Her knack for channeling all the ideas that are flowing through fashion right now—textile development, experimental sweaters, the “art” shoe—in a personal, relevant way puts **Phoebe Philo’**s collectsion for Céline way ahead.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/Indigitalimages.com10/166Raf Simons reimagined the look of Christian Dior’s classic Bar jackets and curvilinear dresses, paying homage to the house and its legacy and his own vibrant aesthetic all at once.
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com11/166With a lineup that alternated between forties-influenced semi-sheer chiffon dresses and strong modern tailoring, **Riccardo Tisci’**s grown-up take on female sexuality was one of his best collectsions for the house to date.
Photo: Gianni Pucci/Indigitalimages.com12/166Hedi Slimane looked at Chelsea—as in Swinging London and the type of cool girls Nico sang about—for his latest offering at Saint Laurent collectsion. Packing the runway with achingly desirable fashion at every level, it’s clear that the designer is hitting his stride with womenswear.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos/Indigitalimages.com13/166Karl Lagerfeld has a unique grasp of the contemporary zeitgeist, and a febrile imagination that resulted in an unforgettable collectsion and a super market-inspired fashion décor that will go down in history as a tour de force of wit and invention.
Photo: Marcus Tondo/Indigitalimages.com14/166Using Beauty and the Beast as a way to tell the label’s story for fall, Sarah Burton created virginial empire-line smocks and dark trapeze-like coats for a truly magical fairy-tale collectsion.
Photo: Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com15/166**Nicolas Ghesquière’**s debut for Louis Vuitton was undoubtedly one of the most eagerly anticipated moments of the fashion season, and he carried the codes of the house forward with a new casual and functional cool.
16/166Some of fall’s most exciting moments came to light outside the fashion establishment. Who wasn’t dazzled by the decorative, sparkling embroideries at Mary Katrantzou or metallic color of **Marco de Vincenzo’**s tartans? Which isn’t to say that young stars like Joseph Altuzarra and Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters didn’t also shine. The former’s fearless use of color and latter’s highly original take on geek chic brightened the season.
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25/166Sixties London shaped the fall collectsions from Nicolas Ghesquière’s twenty-first-century take on the era for Louis Vuitton to Hedi Slimane’s cool, moody, metallic girls.
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34/166Sequins, crystals, and pailettes appeared throughout the collectsions, but in subtle applications. Exhibit A: The gilded wash of **Narciso Rodriguez’**s glimmering shift-dress, or the dusting of garnishes on Alexander Wang’s hyperchic knits at Balenciaga.
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44/166The dominant pattern for fall was optic and angular, veering between graphic print and monochrome trompe l’oeil motif.
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55/166Come fall, designers argue that fun and flirty frocks aren’t just for fairer weather (try saying that ten times fast).
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64/166This season the cool swagger of the ubiquitous biker was usurped by its softer cousin, shearling which came in all many of eye-opening new iterations.
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75/166Fall’s tailored looks blend the streamlined with the shape conscious, with designers including Riccardo Tisci and Olivier Theyskens proposing new plays on volume that don’t sacrifice length and leanness.
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86/166Broad brushstrokes of the vibrant turn-of-the century art movement were all over the fall collectsions, from the Bloomsbury–heroine flavor at Dries Van Noten to the Erwin Blumenfeld influence at Carven.
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94/166Whether it’s the erratic weather, stress of daily life, or allure of something that feels handmade, cozy sweater dressing was one of the season’s strongest themes.
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104/166Designers infused outerwear with rich color, texture and subtle plays on proportion, giving plenty of new and interesting options for a wardrobe of coats.
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114/166The Gatsby craze may be behind us, but there’s an undeniable appeal to a glittering, drop waist dress. This fall it’s all about pairing it with a sporty, flat, or otherwise unexpected shoe.
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124/166Fall’s youthful, color-blocked, and courageous fur coats for fall will surely shift perceptions.
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135/166The case for a cozy couldn’t have been more convincing this season, with luxurious and imaginative reworkings of traditional argyle, cable, and Andean knits.
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147/166Designers circuit wide procured inventive—though still hardy—iterations of outerwear, ensuring you’ll greet the next polar vortex in style.
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