Will Saudi Arabia become the next destination for those seeking rising fashion talents? That’s the aim behind the Jeddah Vogue Fashion Experience, masterminded by HRH Princess Adelah bint Abdullah bin Abdulaziz and Italian Vogue’s Franca Sozzani. A contest to promote young Saudi women designers held from April 20 to 22nd in Jeddah (a fascinating ancient city regarded as the kingdom’s cultural capital), it’s earned support from the likes of Wafaa Abbar, president of the luxury department store Rubaiyat. It was a rare opportunity granted to international editors and journalists to access the rarely seen lifestyle of Saudi Arabia’s female elite. Passionate about fashion—the more lavish, colorful, and feminine, the better—they’ve got the means to afford it, and are among the most coveted customers on the planet for megabrands.
Saudi society operates on a strict set of religious rules, but in the last 10 years restrictions on women’s public behavior have started to slowly ease up, as explained by Princess Adelah during a press reception at her elegant home in Jeddah. “Obstacles fuel creativity, limitations feed opportunities,” added Abbar, nodding to the new wave of Saudi female fashion designers, working around the intricacies of Saudi sanctions in order to express their visions. It proved a spot-on statement: The 10 budding talents’ collectsions offered a fresh take on tradition that was as respectful as it was appealing and modern. An international jury included Naomi Campbell, Silvia Venturini Fendi and daughter Delfina Delettrez, Farida Khelfa, Alberta Ferretti, and Stella Jean.
The three-day tour de force of meetings, collectsion showcases, fashion talks, and forums culminated in a lavish charity gala dinner for 400 female-only guests, held in Princess Adelah’s majestic gardens overlooking the Red Sea. The upper echelons of the aristocracy and high society were out in force, decked out in couture evening gowns, with full-on makeup and towering coiffures to match. Per Princess Adelah: “It is of essence for us to show Saudi culture to the world and to celebrate the increasing important role that women are playing in our society.”
Meet the 10 finalists—including winners Chador and Haal Inc.—here.
Photo: Courtesy of Chador1/10Chador by Nora Aldamer
Nora Aldamer snatched the Jeddah Vogue Fashion Experience Award with her sophisticated collectsion, Chador. Passionate about fashion and with no formal design background, she launched her brand in 2013. Her modern take on traditional shapes makes for a streamlined, elegant look, with a focus on quality fabrics sourced abroad. She’ll have the chance to show her collectsion in Milan next season for Spring 2017.
Photo: Courtesy of Haal Inc.2/10Haal Inc. by Nouf Hakeem and Mariam Bin Mahfouz
With their label, Haal Inc., Nouf Hakeem and Mariam Bin Mahfouz scored the Jury’s Special Mention for their modern interpretation of the traditional Saudi abaya. Emphasizing their love and pride for their heritage (the name was inspired by the Arabic name for cardamom, a staple spice in the country), the two Saudi beauties are keen on giving their abayas a contemporary, luxurious allure, working with fine fabrics in neutral shades.
Photo: Courtesy of Arwa Hussein Al Banawi3/10Arwa Al Banawi
Born in Jeddah and educated in Switzerland, Arwa Al Banawi left a background in finance, following her passion for fashion and taking courses in fashion design in London. Now based in Dubai, her cosmopolitan upbringing is apparent in her collectsions, where elongated lines, typical of the traditional regional garb, are shortened and layered in an experimental yet streamlined way.
Photo: Courtesy of Atulier4/10Atulier by Samar Nasraldin
Born in Jeddah, Samar Nasraldin comes from an artistic family who encouraged her to indulge her passion for fashion and to pursue a career in it. After a course at Jeddah’s Millennium Institute of Technology, she enrolled at London’s Central Saint Martins, and then moved to Paris. Atulier, launched in 2014, reflects her experimental vision and her love for innovative shapes and malleable textures.
Photo: courtesy of Badawiah5/10Badawiah by Safiah Alaquil
Badawiah, from Saudi-Argentine designer Safiah Alaquil, offers a playful take on traditional abayas, embroidered and appliquéd with colorful trimmings and traditional motifs. Alaquil is keen to blend different cultures into her work, with a focus on artisanal techniques and handmade textiles. She also donates partial proceeds from her collectsions to children in need, to support local handicraft communities.
Photo: Courtesy of Charmaleena6/10Charmaleena Jewellery by Leena and Hala Mohamed El Khereiji
Sisters Leena and Hala Mohamed El Khereiji are the force behind Charmaleena, a young fine jewelry brand founded in 2012. Their designs are linear and delicate, inspired by Arab tradition and translated with a contemporary flair. Rose and yellow 18-karat gold and diamond pavé and semiprecious stones give the collectsion its minimal yet luxe look.
Photo: Courtesy of Daneh7/10Daneh by Daneh Buahmad
Daneh Buahmad launched her label, Daneh, in 2010. She brings an international style to her collectsion, where wearability and practicality meet the streamlined look and comfortable volumes of conservative Arabic garb. After graduating in computer science, she indulged her love of fashion and departed for London’s Central Saint Martins to improve her design skills. Her efforts paid off: Her line of modern urbanwear has a laid-back yet flattering quality that appeals to Middle Eastern women.
Photo: Courtesy of Fyunka8/10Fyunka by Alaa Balkhy
Inspired by pop culture, Fyunka handbags pay homage to Arabic culture interpreted with a witty, young spirit. New York–based Alaa Balkhy recently complemented her line with a ready-to-wear offering that has the same playful allure and an easy, contemporary look.
Photo: Courtesy of Haifa Fahad9/10Haifa Fahad
Edgy and fearless, Haifa Fahad doesn’t shy away from challenging conventions, yet her roots are firmly in place. A take on the traditional abaya is at the core of her work, riffed on in ways that court controversy among some. Fahad’s sensibility is elegant and modern; embellishments lend a touch of glamour to an otherwise minimal silhouette.
Photo: Courtesy of Mashael Alrajhi10/10Mashael Alrajhi
Based in Riyadh, Mashael Alrajhi built an atelier in 2013, creating clothes with an innovative, minimalistic allure. Equally fond of her Saudi heritage and of creative experimentation, her style has an artistic edge that doesn’t stray from conservative lengths and proportions. Surfaces are worked into interesting textures, giving depth to elongated, simple lines. Colors are reduced to black and white, enhancing her conceptual bent. She was selected earlier this year to represent Saudi Arabia during London Fashion Week, a reward for her constant research and inventive approach.
