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Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv2/11CélinePhoebe Philo never feels the need to overcomplicate a thing—and for good reason. Her entire Fall ’17 collectsion was an expert class in wearable modernity and minimalist chic, achieving counterintuitive luxury with pieces like this über-practical waxed-leather tote.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv3/11Maison MargielaIn one of the most transcendent shows of Paris Fashion Week, a mash-up of references and techniques were undone and sent down the runway to the highly addictive song “Issues” by Julia Michaels. As only the masters can do, John Galliano showed this necklace without almost any context or foreshadowing from the rest of the collectsion—the same could be said of the fur bags worn as hats that conjured Trojan warriors—but it demanded no explanation in its perfect beauty and drama.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv4/11LoeweIn a sophisticated collectsion that transported us to the provincial French farm, an occasional toast motif was tres chic and wonderfully charming.
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv5/11Louis VuittonBoots were toughened up for work and weather in every city this season. A rainy week in Paris made these patent leather knee-high boots almost too good to wait for.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv6/11Alexander McQueenReferencing exquisite Cornwall needlepoints and mystical wishing trees tied with ribbons, Sarah Burton once again left her audience in awe of her vision. The structure of a boxy bag layered with the romanticism of unfurling yarns is the perfect meeting of two of this season’s top trends.
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv7/11BalenciagaAs always, Demna Gvasalia assembled a supremely modern collectsion out of elegant archive references that were radically updated with unexpected abstractions. This moving feather case was not a touch ironic or hysterical—the whole look sashayed down the runway with a poetic elegance and magic you have to see to believe.
Photo: Luca Tombolino / Indigital.tv8/11ValentinoPierpaolo Piccioli’s hardcore hippies were ready for evening in combat boots and delicate evening bags.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv9/11Dries Van NotenA shiny white boot—not to mention the refreshingly age-diverse rock-star casting—was the perfect palette-cleanser at Dries Van Noten’s 100th show.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv10/11Miu MiuA ’60s-dating-show contestant; a Korean pop star; a Soul Train shaker; a young movie starlet—Miu Miu’s message was a crystal-clear celebration of glamour in all its forms. Let this diamante jewelry suite serve as your starter kit.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv11/11Saint LaurentStill attempting to find his footing at the helm of Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello tried to claim ground with fierce slouchy boots on almost every look. Always a sucker for sparkle, I tossed aside for a moment any wariness of the bare-breasted looks and impossibly short skirts and fell easily for these stunners.