1/150Fall is going to be a feminine season to be sure, but one wherein beauty is tinged with a touch of darkness. Is it any wonder then that Rooney Mara—the Girl with the Subversive Edge—is the face of the moment? Her refined rebelliousness was one of many underlying currents in the best collectsions—from designers like Marc Jacobs, whose scale of vision continues to lead New York’s rising stars like Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang onto the global stage, to the force that is Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, who mixed powerful equestrian chic with lingerie-inspired dresses in leather and lace. That being said, one of the strongest—and most moving—collectsions this season came from Raf Simons at Jil Sander, whose idea of what it means to be a woman of substance was awash in fragile pastels.
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Proenza Schouler duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have a cool (and collectsed) sense of oversize proportions, seen here in great clothes and accessories (deerskin clutches or handheld duffle bags) done with an incredible and intricate amount of handwork.
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By turns epic, romantic, and uplifting, Jacobs’s collectsion was filled with neo-Victorian/Edwardian oversize coats worn over skirts over skirts over skirts, framed doctor’s bags, and diamante buckled pilgrim shoes—not to mention, who else would give us fur hats the size of steamer trunks?
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Wang connects with cool urbanity so that his clothes have a hard-edged chic that is youthful but not young, with graphic uses of black, patent leather, and fur. They offer a kind of protection, and on his supermodel lineup this season, they looked like super-stylish armor.
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London’s foremost young rebel sent out everything from a brilliant scarlet jean smoking pant to a fox jacket to a violet velvet sheath dress; a total wardrobe, and a gorgeous one at that.
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Burberry Prorsum’s Christopher Bailey focused on great clothes that are rooted in a sense of pride in their Britishness. Fall was boiled down to a strong message of utilitarian outerwear paired with a pencil skirt and an Edwardian stiletto country boot.
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Fall reflected Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier’s sublime artisanal craftsmanship—beautiful slim-fit coats, fantastic forties dresses, long and lean velvet evening dresses, and the most incredible riding boot.
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Raf Simons at Jil Sander gave a very modern idea of opulence—and of Jil Sander—with cashmere double-face duster coats, intriguingly cut, yet no less elegant, cocktail dresses, and a sublime color palette as ravishing as the flowers on his runway.
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Miuccia Prada sent out a fashion battalion of models with dark eyes and dip-dyed hair, wearing the new pant—cropped and flared—with slim jackets and layered underneath oversize skirts. And given Prada’s affection for jewelry, is it any wonder that she affixed big stones on every surface?
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Consuelo Castiglioni’s furs were so intricately worked they looked like tweed, and her three-dimensional floral beading offered a new idea of evening in the form of a molded top and pencil skirt). Best of all, her collars either climbed up to chin level or were decorated with dangling stones. We’ll never feel bad about our necks again.
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Welcome to Balenciaga, Inc. Nicolas Ghesquière’s vision for fall was all about strong executive dressing turned on its head—elaborate dresses with gold-lamé breastplates and pixelated, graphic bustiers, box-shouldered jackets, and even parachute-silk overalls.
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Phoebe Philo stands out for intuiting women’s design needs based on what they feel, what they need, and what makes them comfortable both in the world and in their skin. This season that included wider ankle-cropped pants, more of her perfectly proportioned oversize coats, leather scarf tops and the most covetable sweatshirt in collaged fur that looked modern and new.
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Strength, subversiveness, romanticism, Bauhaus, the most powerful and chic idea of equestrian dressing—it was all covered by Riccardo Tisci’s forceful collectsion that exhibited precision tailoring, just the right amount of opulence, and a killer knee-high, wedge boot.
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Using the McQ Alexander McQueen line as an outlet for innovative, but still practical, day clothes, Sarah Burton is working with the main Alexander McQueen collectsion as a means to explore her superb talent for the fabulous and fantastical—as in, pastel dandelions of pink tulle fantastical—side of fashion.
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Who wouldn’t prefer to travel with a porter these days? Marc Jacobs’s collectsion for Vuitton literally rolled into the Louvre on a steam train, depositing model passengers in exquisite examples of the new layering: a big coat, over an exaggerated A-line skirt over slim, cropped, and flared pants—accessorized, of course, with the house’s incredible bags in the hands of a gentleman helper.
16/150From Olivier Rousteing’s super-hot, super-decorated, offhand sexiness at Balmain, to Peter Dundas’s dark, grown-up sensuality at Emilio Pucci, to the strict, outsize proportions Francisco Costa showed at Calvin Klein Collection, there are many varied—and many fabulous—ways to define what it means to be a woman of strength.
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26/150Practicality can sometimes feel too . . . practical. This is about designers who dream beyond the realms of daily life and firmly stake their extraordinarily fashionable claim in the world.
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31/150The new suit for day is a fitted jacket with a cropped, flared trouser (whether you throw on another layer, like an A-line skirt, is up to you) and it comes in rich jewel tones and understatedly lustrous fabric.
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41/150Jewel-box ornamentation is the new idea of adornment, with beads, gems and stones placed where real jewelry might once have been on, say, the neck or the collar.
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51/150Fabrics of varied textures and pattern are color-blocked and constructed in an intriguing way, so that often what they look like from the front might not bear any resemblance to how they appear from the back.
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60/150The new oversize is less about hiding or looking for protection in a cocoon, and more about making a bright, bold, colorful statement.
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69/150Whether it’s laser-cut like lace for a dress, or twisted into an off-the-shoulder top, leather is turning up in unexpected ways.
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80/150It may not require the traditional trappings of all the athleticism on the runway—there is no mesh, drawstring, neoprene, sneakers, or anoraks—but equestrianism is a sport too, and as these fall collectsions showed us, one of the more elegant ones at that.
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90/150Furs were patchworked, collaged, and constructed in new, youthful ways that reenergized and reintroduced the idea of the fur coat to a new generation of women. And when it wasn’t full-on, it was an accent—whether as a detachable collar or trimming a sleeve, hem, or pocket.
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101/150There are few more effortless ways to dress than a sheath. This season, it’s the young designers who are doing them in ways that are less delicate and instead darker, cooler, and more powerful—and probably long-sleeved.
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111/150Lingerie-inspired looks evoke a new femme fatale, at once soft but also strong, in deep, muted colors, mixed textures, and layered underneath luxurious coats.
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122/150Ranch, Native American, and pioneer references converge in luxe fabrics and elegant shapes, bringing frontier influences to an urban wardrobe.
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132/150Mostly for evening, velvet column dresses (sometime printed) have silhouettes so clean, and fabric so beautiful, that they’re best left unadorned lest they feel overdone.
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142/150A sweater as long as it’s cabled, a coat as long as it’s khaki and military in origin, a flat as long as it’s a man’s slipper . . . weekend dressing undergoes a renaissance.
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