If you were following the fall 2013 collectsions in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, you may have watched with growing excitement as two distinctly different women emerged on the runway: In one camp, the tough-chic biker babe with a lust for sooty, smudgy eyeliner; in the other, the modern minimalist beauty with flawless skin—and a standing salon appointment.
So then, which will you channel come fall? Well, probably a little of both. After all, if designers seemed to be making one statement this season, it’s that the lives of women are too vast and varied to be backed into a sartorial corner—and the same liberating philosophy applies above the neck.
Ultimately, of course, it all boils down to how—and when—you'll wear fall’s new hair and makeup in real life. By day, there’s plenty to be said for the quiet polish of a perfectly groomed ponytail, handsome brow, and softly sculpted face—codes that seemed to take their cue, at least in part, from fashion’s fresh emphasis on menswear. At night, it’s all about attitude. Whether you plan on stepping out with a deep bordeaux lip or channeling your punk instincts with a choppy, Joan Jett bob and kohl-rimmed eyes, you’ll need the swagger to back it up. The season’s only anytime, anywhere constant? Slick, high-shine hair that borders on wet—and looks as undeniably cool in a sculptural chignon as it does spilling down the back of an evening dress. How’s that for real world wearable?
Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com1/78Pictured: Lanvin
“Red lips at every level” is how backstage makeup artist Pat McGrath described the spectrum of lushly painted mouths spotted on the runways. Arriving in shades that ranged from soft bordeaux (Prada) and saturated ruby (Lanvin) to boldest, brightest crimson
(Nina Ricci), the look was powerfully feminine.
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Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com10/78Pictured: Céline
Fall’s reworked ponytails were no thrown-together affair. Alexander Wang’s sleek, two-toned look conjured serious urban glamour, while Jil Sander’s strict high-gloss tails were a study in new minimalism. Clean variations of the style at Stella McCartney and Chloé had a groomed, boyish quality—and although designer **Phoebe Philo’**s runway girl never quite pulled the lengths of her hair all the way through her rubber band at Céline, a careful inspection of her smooth, healthy ends revealed a deliberate touch.
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Photographed by Kevin Tachman19/78Pictured: Fendi
By turns playful and poetic, punk spirit dominated above the neck. The highlights: Marc Jacobs’s spiky Joan Jett wigs, Fendi’s colorful fur mohawks, and Givenchy’s acid-orange pin curls, which had front-row editors buzzing for days.
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Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com26/78Pictured: Prada
The big news for hair arrived by way of a slick, glossy new texture that proved surprisingly versatile. Scraped back from the face at Gucci, Giambattista Valli, and Tom Ford, it heightened the season’s tough glamour; combed through at Prada and Lanvin, it evoked a fresh-from-the-shower sense of ease.
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Photo: Luca Cannonieri /InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com37/78Pictured: Christian Dior
A stroke of glimmering metallic pigment on the face—or near it—made for a winning high-impact makeup statement: Scoring extra points for originality: Backstage pro **Peter Philips’**s silver glitter lids for Chanel and hand-crafted rock crystal ear cuffs for Dries Van Noten.
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Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com44/78Pictured: Saint Laurent
The season’s deep, dark, smoky eye makeup resonated with rock star cool. Whether they were swirling layers of dense black shadow over the lids (Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan) or smudging a graphic line along the lashes (Rodarte, Saint Laurent), makeup artists stuck to one definitive shade: black. The noteworthy exceptions to the rule? Jason Wu’s sharply shaded deep violet eyes and Gucci’s glimmering garnet-colored lids.
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Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com53/78Pictured: Proenza Schouler
The just-rolled-out-of-bed “real girl” beauty of recent seasons gave way to something more refined at shows from Proenza Schouler to Isabel Marant: Faces were shaded with a subtly nuanced palette of flesh-toned pigments and finished with a few swipes of brown mascara. Hair ran the gamut from pressed curls and romantic braids to smooth, easy, well-kept waves.
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Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com63/78Pictured: Chloé
Put down the tweezers and pick up the brow pencil. Fall’s softly shaded features demanded darkened, bushy arches. “It gives shape to the face,” explained backstage makeup artist Lucia Pieroni at Rochas, where she elongated models’ brows for a “handsome” appearance. That slightly masculine shape also turned up on runways like Céline and Chloé, while things chez Jean Paul Gaultier took a turn for the exaggerated and graphic.
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Photo: Gianni Pucci/InDigitalteam/GoRunway.com71/78Pictured: Balenciaga
There was a rigorous restraint to the new updo—reimagined for fall as a glossy origami-folded chignon (Jason Wu), dampened twist (Dior), or braided pair of knots
(Miu Miu). At Balenciaga and Nina Ricci, hair was slicked tight and finished with a wide, flat fabric headband that wrapped neatly around the head.
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