When the New York-born-and-raised photographer Mirabelle Marden invited a handful of her closest friends—the musician Diego Dueñas, Régime des Fleurs’s Alia Raza, and the artist Olympia Scarry—to visit her at her family’s retreat on Hydra, Greece this summer, the response was unanimous: “We all said, ‘Let’s do it,’” recalls Raza, who, between a recent transatlantic move and the launch of her new skin-care line, Topi Botanic, was long overdue for an opportunity to unplug. “I travel a lot for my job, but this was a rare thing for me,” she continues. “A trip that was an actual holiday.” Fast forward to July, Dueñas, Raza, and Scarry convened in Athens, where they dined at the Asian fusion bistro Nolan and took in art both old and new (the Benaki Museum and Rebecca Camhi Gallery were standouts, says Raza). From there, they boarded the two-hour ferry to the Aegean island.
Upon arriving at the car-free town’s port, the trio of travelers were met by donkeys, which carried their belongings (sheer silk caftans from Desert Vintage, in Raza’s case) up to Marden’s home—an 18th century, sun-soaked house overlooking the Saronic Gulf that her parents—the painters Brice and Helen Marden—happened upon in the 1970s, a decade after Hydra became a destination for the likes of Leonard Cohen and the Rolling Stones. (These days, Phoebe Philo can be seen strolling its crescent-shaped harbor.) The week of rest and relaxation that ensued was capped off with a sunset sail—and a power outage, which turned out to be the ultimate respite. “We walked home from the port through town, and we saw what the island looked like two hundred years ago before there was electricity,” Raza muses. Their final meal—an alfresco dinner in the property’s jasmine-scented garden—was lit by candles. “It was a beautiful last night.”
Below, Raza takes Vogue inside her Hydra, Greece escape (and perfectly stocked suitcase).
Alia Raza’s Packing List
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza1/24A corner outside the entrance to Downhouse. All the greenery creates the perfect dappled light throughout the gardens.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza2/24Every morning we had cucumber agua frescas at the famous Pirate Bar. You can hang out at the tavernas on the port for hours and run into everyone you know on the island.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza3/24We stopped at one of the best jewelry shops in town, Keramidas Lykourgos. They specialize in Greek gold. I got the thinnest gold chain and the owner’s charming son gave me a heart-shaped evil-eye pendant. I’m wearing my daytime layers—a 1970s Indian silk caftan from Desert Vintage, a Comme des Garçons man’s shirt tied around the waist, and a very protective hat Diego picked out for me from a local store.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza4/24The view of the port from inside the shop.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza5/24Mirabelle tries on some gorgeous strands of gems and pearls.
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Photo: Courtesy of Mirabelle Marden6/24The sweet Dimitri Antonitsis founded the nonprofit Hydra School Projects, where he curates a group show every summer. He’s also a jewelry designer, and he knows everyone on Hydra.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza7/24At Dimitri’s show, a great Mike Kelley work watches over the classroom. It’s from his series of stuffed toys collectsed at thrift shops in the 1980s and ’90s. I remember the pictures from the Sonic Youth album cover [Dirty], their take on grunge. It was on my bedroom wall growing up.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza8/24Olympia heading down to the water. I don’t like too much sun, so after they spent half the day on the rocks I asked Olympia and Diego to take me back at sunset for a swim. The sea was cobalt blue and felt super fresh.
Photo: Courtesy of Mirabelle Marden9/24On our way to dinner. I packed cream for night and navy for day. I thought about bringing a bag that was more beachy but then realized this black leather clutch from the Row gave some nice contrast to all the dresses and robes. As for Olympia, she doesn’t have to try at all and always looks divine.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza10/24Mirabelle under the bougainvillea, Venetian slippers matching the blooms.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza11/24Some of Mirabelle’s mom Helen’s antiques, insouciantly arranged around an alcove dotted with sea and turtle shells.
Photo: Courtesy of Mirabelle Marden12/24Lounging in the heat under 18th century Ottoman style wooden ceilings and a sick painting by Helen Marden, whose work I really love.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza13/24The sky-facing staircase leading to Mirabelle’s dad Brice’s studio.
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Photo: Courtesy of Mirabelle Marden14/24Helping to prepare for a party at Downhouse. I’m not much of a cook but I can arrange candlesticks. I had bought this dress a couple of years ago and never had an occasion to wear it. Maybe it was a bit literal to bring it to Greece, but I like to think it worked!
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza15/24Antique curios and dried eucalyptus atop the fridge.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza16/24Diego waits in the garden for guests to arrive. Mirabelle has always had a way with a casually arranged, festive table. The basil topiary is one of her typical touches.
Photo: Courtesy of Mirabelle Marden17/24Dimitri and Jessica [Craig-Martin], pre-party. Jessica wears a lot of color and does it well, but here I liked her in black with cherry red sunglasses, bag, necklace, and slippers.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza18/24None of us on the trip were big drinkers, but I had to try a few sips of Ouzo, the potent Greek liqueur served diluted and ice cold. It tasted like a great perfume. Now I’m determined to make an Ouzo extract for a new fragrance.
Photo: Courtesy of Mirabelle Marden19/24Olympia and Tara [Subkoff] in the kitchen. Tara was excitedly showing off the day’s find, a chunky cross made of pink rosettes on a big gold chain.
Photo: Courtesy of Alia Raza20/24Jessica’s sweet dog Roo at the end of our cocktail hour turned dinner party turned after-hours hang.
Photo: Courtesy of Mirabelle Marden21/24Catching up at Pirate Bar with Lorca and her adorable son, Lyon. The last time I saw him we spent an evening in LA watching cartoons and eating Japanese candy. It was great to see them both on Hydra, where Lorca grew up. Note their matching Greek block-printed shirts from Kashish, a great local shop.
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Photo: Courtesy of Jessica Craig-Martin22/24Jessica and Mirabelle arranged a beautiful boat ride for our last day. We chatted about everything from politics to celebrity couples before taking a long swim and heading back to town, watching the sun set over the sea. Here is Mirabelle in her ‘Grey Mardens’ look with me in a blue and gold robe I found that morning at Turquoise, a local clothing and textiles shop.
Photo: Courtesy of Mirabelle Marden23/24Jessica with Dimitri’s dog Zubi on the bow, and a view of one of the countless rock islands that jut out of the Aegean.
Photo: Courtesy of Jessica Craig-Martin24/24Mirabelle dives into her beloved sea.
