Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini1/17Yamadera Temple, Yamagata “Temples and shrines are of course a must-see in Japan, and I find their beauty is always deeply connected to the surrounding nature. Yamadera is particularly scenic: The temple is located high up on a steep mountainside, and there are great views of the wonderful valley.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini2/17Aizu-Hongo-Yaki, Fukushima Prefecture “Aizu-Hongo-Yaki has the oldest pottery tradition of the Tohoku region. We arrived after one night in Tokyo, and I quickly realized that a trip to rural Japan means a journey through the astonishing traditions of ceramic arts and crafts. Every ceramic is imbued with a sense of naturalism, and each shape is irregular. Beauty is found in the rustic, the incomplete, and the imperfect—also known as wabi-sabi.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini3/17Okama crater of Mount Zao, Zao Onsen “The Japanese absolutely love hiking! From the Zao Onsen, the Zao ropeway takes you up 1,500 meters, and from there it’s an hour’s walk to the summit, where the Okama crater is. The view is utterly spectacular. The volcanic lake is said to change colors many times a day depending on the weather, and it’s called Okama because it resembles a traditional cooking pot. Sweet.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini4/17“At the top of Mount Zao, I was impressed by a humble and tiny shelter. Its brutalist look matched the lunar volcanic landscape; in Japan, you quickly learn to see unadorned rusticity as a sign of superior, serene beauty.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini5/17Chusonji Temple, Hiraizumi “This part of Japan isn’t as common for tourists, but I strongly recommend it. The Chusonji Temple consists of dozens of buildings, and to this day, only two survive in their original structures from the 12th century. The temple is famous for the Konjikido’s lavish golden interiors, but for me, the gilded decorations weren’t the most impressive part—it was the dense forest and humble, often hidden corners that lingered in my memory. The temple’s beautiful Noh theater stage was also an unforgettable sight.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini6/17Kogensha store, Morioka “Morioka is known for its various types of noodles, but the food isn’t what lured us there. The small city is filled with craft shops, where you can find traditional textiles, handwoven baskets, and other folk art. Naturally, I lost my mind over the strangely beautiful tea bowls; their subtle colors, non-uniform surfaces, and unique glazes were irresistible! Japan has the greatest pottery tradition in the world: Today, the pottery is still based on aesthetics developed centuries ago, with an appreciation for the modest, the imperfect, and even the decayed. For the Japanese, beauty exists in the impermanence of things. It’s truly an inspiring point of view.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini7/17Iwate Museum of Art, Morioka “In Morioka, the Iwate Museum of Art is definitely worth seeing. It features a permanent exhibition of local Iwate Prefecture artists, and I was struck by the work of Kodama Akira. I simply loved his paintings, and immediately went online to learn more about him, but found absolutely nothing! There’s no trace of him on the Internet . . . what an intriguing mystery.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini8/17Lake Tazawa, Semboku “Located south of the Towada-Hachimantai National Park, Lake Tazawa offers incredible views. The best part was discovering that the entire area is completely unspoiled and undeveloped. The other great surprise was the lake’s intensely blue, crystal clear waters—the temptation to dive in was huge!”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini9/17Nyuto Onsen “Nyuto Onsen is a collectsion of traditional ryokans, or Japanese inns, in the mountains of the Akita Prefecture. The outdoor mixed-gender baths are famous in the region; it’s a Japanese experience not to be missed.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini10/17Syohoen ryokan, Daisen “Ryokans are the best way to experience omotenashi, the Japanese tradition of hospitality. There’s a soothing atmosphere of wa, or harmony, and the elegant rooms are stripped to the bare essentials. It makes you want to get rid of all the unnecessary stuff in your Western home! The historic Syohoen ryokan is particularly special: It dates back to 1917 and is one of the oldest ryokans in operation.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini11/17Tsuruoka beach “You find some odd places on the coasts of Japan, like Tsuruoka. The town feels like a weird time warp—it looks completely frozen, as if it’s been standing still since 1969. There are huge concrete hotels overlooking the rather desolate, windy beach. At sunset, Japanese music plays from the loudspeakers to announce to the (very few) tourists that the day is over, and then it really turns into a ghost town.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini12/17“In Japan, each meal looks as good as it tastes. From the most humble ryokan to the best restaurant in Tokyo, serving and presenting food is just as crucial as the recipe.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini13/17Mount Haguro, Yamagata and Akita Prefecture “Haguro-san, or Mount Haguro, is one of the three Sacred Mountains of Dewa Sanzan. For pilgrims, each of the mountains represents birth, death, and rebirth; Dewa Sanzan is also the center of Shugendo, a folk religion based on mountain worship. Haguro-san, the mountain of birth, is the most accessible one. To reach the shrine at the top of the mountain, you have to climb 2,446 stone steps through an ancient cedar forest. I must admit, the trail was exhausting (and I used to live in a fourth-flour walk-up apartment!), but climbings those steps was breathtaking and magical. When we reached the top, I had an even greater appreciation for the natural beauty.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini14/17Mount Haguro, Yamagata and Akita Prefecture “Along the trail (and beside a five-story pagoda dating back to 937), we encountered the most majestic giant cedar. The Japanese call it ‘Jiji-sugi,’ the Grandpa Cedar Tree, and it’s estimated to be 1,000 years old. I found it touching that people call it a natural monument; unfortunately, the Grandma Cedar Tree, which used to stand next to it, was knocked down by a windstorm in 1902.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini15/17Mukaitaki ryokan, Aizuwakamsatsu “While staying in a ryokan, you’re invited to wear the yukata, obi, and haori—and not just in the room, but all around the inn. Each ryokan has its own style of yukata in different patterns and colors, which makes it fun to stay in different ones.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini16/17Aman, Tokyo “After a lot of traveling, arriving in Tokyo almost feels relaxing—especially when you’re at the Aman hotel. It has the simplicity of a ryokan in rural Japan but with modern comfort and sophistication. The rooms are huge, the view from the bed is spectacular, and the black stone bathrooms are luxurious.”
Photo: Courtesy of Marco Zanini17/17Tatemichiya, Daikanyama, Tokyo “It’s the hidden spots that make Tokyo unique. Tatemichiya is one of them: The smoky restaurant is located in a basement in Daikanyama, and its punk rock atmosphere makes it one of my favorites. Everything is good there: the rough wooden tables, the restroom you have to enter through a low tunnel, the excellent music, the great food and sake, the Ramones posters . . . But the best part is the graffiti by Yoshitomo Nara all over the room! Nara is one of my favorite Japanese artists, and apparently, he’s a big fan of the place, too.”
