Chanel-o-holics may have barely just broken in their cap-toed pumps from Matthieu Blazy’s debut Chanel collectsion, but the designer is already onto the next conversation-starting shoe—or maybe it’s a lack thereof?
Yesterday Chanel presented its resort 2027 collectsion in Biarritz, where, among the mermaid-esque paillettes and logo’d swim caps were pairs of particularly freaky shoes that got the Internet chattering: heels tied to models’ feet—not a sole in sight.
Vogue staffers—like many members of the fashion community—were instantly intrigued by these semi-barefoot shoes. Where would one wear these? Who would wear these? How did we get to this phalange-filled moment? Here, four Vogue writers go tête-à-tête—or, rather, pied-à-pied—on Chanel’s entry into the freaky shoe arena.
Define yourself—are you a freaky shoe fan or a skeptic?
Hannah Jackson: I am pro! While I’m admittedly an entry-level shoe freak, I think they’re the easiest way to add intrigue to any outfit. My current go-to are my Tory Burch open-toed monkstraps.
Anna Cafolla: A self-annointed split-toe savant. My favorite pair—Margiela Tabi, low-heeled ballerinas—are currently being held hostage by my cobbler, who is searching for the wooden shoebox splint needed for their repair. The Tabi collectsion is very well-loved.
Max Berlinger: I like the idea of a freaky shoe for someone else, but I pretty much stick to Vans slip-ons for myself. But I love seeing a really wild shoe on the runway—I still remember the awe I felt when I saw those McQueen armadillo shoes come down the catwalk for the first time. And I deeply respect anyone taking a big swing with a shoe.
Christian Allaire: Always enjoy an off-kilter shoe. It’s a low-lift way to instantly inject your look with some personality. Why be basic when you can be bold.
What was your immediate reaction when the shoe hit the Chanel runway?
HJ: Admittedly, I was more focused on the fish-gill headpieces and swimming caps, but once my eyes finally made it down to the models’ feet, I was totally delighted. What a cheeky, fun idea. Blazy isn’t trying to convince anyone that these are practical, but sometimes the whimsy is the entire point.
CA: I always enjoy a runway shoe that doesn’t lean into comfort or practicality—we’re supposed to be enjoying a fantasy here. The (mostly) bare feet touching the sandy carpet were reminiscent of frolicking on the beach, which was the whole vibe of the show.
MB: At first glance, I thought that it was just a few strings tied around the foot, which I thought was a funny gesture. It wasn’t until a bit later that my colleagues showed me that they were, in fact, just the back half of a shoe, which made them a bit more…intriguing.
AC: Fear struck me—I’m not pedicure-ready! My toes must stay securely ensconced, for now.
So…how did we get here?
MB: I think it’s a funny little trajectory from low-pro sneakers to sandals to now this. It’s always fun to see how a designer can put their spin on a summer shoe when everyone’s trying to wear as little as possible, and this is the most original take I’ve seen. Obviously, we’re in a very foot-forward time in our culture (take that as you will), so…it’s certainly zeitgeist-y.
And while I think Matthieu’s Chanel is obviously really beautiful and poetic, I like that he’s dipping his toe (heh) into some wittier, slightly off-kilter design elements. It feels confident! It also reminds me of Karl, who has a preternatural sense about creating buzzy, viral moments. Fashion is fun! Fashion is silly! These are both.
CA: It also feels like a bit of an evolution of the luxurious flip-flop trend (thanks, The Row)—where a humble little summer sandal is evolving and going high-fashion.
HJ: As sneakers have adopted the structural integrity of ballet flats and flip-flops get thinner by the season, it’s not surprising to see someone take it all the way there. But it does make me wonder: How much further can we go?
AC: It seems to have very naturally intertwined with the current pop culture moment, too. With the Met Gala theme, we just know we’re going to be seeing a lot of toga-like dresses. These shoes are giving Hermès—not the brand, but the wing-footed Olympic Greek deity.
What celebrity will be the first brave soul—or brave sole—to try these?
HJ: If we’re completely disregarding ambassadorship and brand obligations, I could see Tilda Swinton rocking the hell out of these. Doechii would also pull them off—she attended the Chloé show barefoot, so this is already in her comfort zone.
AC: These heel cuplets would work perfectly for someone on an endless vacation—who trots along the continents via their idyllic sandy beaches rather than sticky sidewalks. It has to be our most radical optimist, our queen of la vacanza, Dua Lipa.
CA: I’m not saying Chanel boy A$AP Rocky would wear them, but he could definitely pull them off.
MB: My short list of girls I’d like to see wear them (and could pull them off): Chloé Sevigny, Kristen Stewart, Emma Chamberlain.
Where do you think one would wear the Chanel anti-shoe?
HJ: Like Anna said, this is not suitable for someone who is stomping the streets of New York. (After a rat scurried over my loafer this past winter, I’m hesitant to break out the flip-flops again.) That said, hosting a dinner party in these babies would be an instant conversation starter.
CA: I do think they have a place for a chic garden party or some sort of beachy/poolside festivity. Perhaps under a long sweeping dress—just a peek of the feet emerging.
MB: Wherever it is, I will not be getting there by subway.
Would you ever wear them?
CA: Surely not. But I’m not here to yuck anyone’s yum. I just don’t like my toes out!
HJ: Yes, but I’d need a pedicure first.
AC: You’ll find me on the other side of the freaky shoe spectrum first, 10 toes down in the Vibrams.
MB: I’m game to try anything once. I’d have to get back to you after that maiden voyage as to whether I’d wear them again, though.