Runway

The Work of Mariano Fortuny Is Celebrated—And Reimagined—At the Palais Galliera

By Laird Borrelli-Persson
  • A first look at the neoDelpos debuting at the Palais Galliera.
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    Photo: Courtesy of Mickey Riad / Fortuny
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    A first look at the neo-Delpos, debuting at the Palais Galliera.

  • Detail of the 21stcentury Delphos uunveiled at the Palais Galliera today.
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    Photo: Courtesy of Mickey Riad / Fortuny
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Detail of a 21st-century Delphos, unveiled at the Palais Galliera today.

  • Fortuny a Spaniard in Venice at the Palais Galliera
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    Photo: © Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia - Museo Fortuny
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Model in Delphos dress, c. 1920 Glass plate with gelatin. Museo Fortuny, Venice

  • Fortuny a Spaniard in Venice at the Palais Galliera
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    Photo: Collection Palais Galliera © Stéphane Piera / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Delphos dress, c. 1919-1920 Taffeta silk in pleated gray; yellow and red glass beads; silk taffeta printed gold. Matching belt.

  • at home dressing
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    Photographed by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, January 15, 1941
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    Mrs. George H. Bostwick in Fortuny

  • Fortuny a Spaniard in Venice at the Palais Galliera
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    Photo: Collection Palais Galliera © Françoise Cochennec / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Delphos dress, c. 1940s Pleated white mercerized cotton canvas; white silk cordon; and white, yellow, and blue glass beads.

  • Natalia Vodianova in vintage Fortuny
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    Natalia Vodianova in vintage Fortuny, 2009

  • Fortuny a Spaniard in Venice at the Palais Galliera
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    Photo: Collection Palais Galliera © Stéphane Piera / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Delphos dress and coat, c. 1919-1920 Taffeta dress in gray pleated silk; yellow and red glass beads; silk taffeta printed in gold. Matching belt. Coat in velvet silk rosewood-coral printed silver, border in velvet silk gray printed brown. Pink crepe chiffon lining.

  • Fortuny a Spaniard in Venice at the Palais Galliera
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    Photo: Collection Palais Galliera © Stéphane Piera / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Detail, Delphos dress and coat, c. 1919-1920

  • Fortuny a Spaniard in Venice at the Palais Galliera
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    Photo: © Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia - Museo Fortuny
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Model in Delphos dress, c. 1920 Glass plate with gelatin. Museo Fortuny, Venice

  • Image may contain Clothing Apparel Lamp Fashion and Robe
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    Photo: Collection Palais Galliera © Stéphane Piera / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Coat, c. 1920 Silk velvet chocolate, velvet silk caramel printed gold. Lining in gold silk satin.

  • Fortuny a Spaniard in Venice at the Palais Galliera
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    Photo: Collection Palais Galliera © Stéphane Piera / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Detail, coat, c. 1920

  • Fortuny a Spaniard in Venice at the Palais Galliera
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    Photo: Collection Palais Galliera © L. Degrâces et P. Ladet / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Belted casaquin jacket, c. 1912 Velvet silk green gold bronze printed. Beige silk fluted lining. Matching belt.

  • Fortuny a Spaniard in Venice at the Palais Galliera
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    Photo: Collection Palais Galliera © Stéphane Piera / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Eleonora dress, c. 1912 Green silk velvet printed with gold, green pleated silk taffeta, green silk cord, black-and-white glass paste beads. Gold silk taffeta lining.

  • Fortuny a Spaniard in Venice at the Palais Galliera
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    Photo: Collection Palais Galliera © Stéphane Piera / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
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    “Fortuny, a Spaniard in Venice” at the Palais Galliera

    Detail, Eleonora dress, c. 1912

Christian Lacroix is Laird Borrelli-Persson’s fashion raison d’etre; the way he combined romance and historicism set her on the path she is following today. Borrelli-Persson studied literature at Boston College, spending her junior year abroad at Oxford, where she added some art history. After graduation she moved to New York to intern ... Read More