An Art Crawl Through the Spring 2017 Collections Inline
Photo: Getty Images; Umberto Fratini / Indigital.tv1/14Valentino
“I like to know my history, and then forget it,” Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli told Sarah Mower before presenting a collectsion informed by medieval art in general, and more specifically, Hieronymus Bosch’s triptych The Garden of Earthly Delights.
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv; Courtesy of Gary Card / @garycard2/14Roksanda
Gary Card’s Matisse-like wooden cut-outs formed the set for Roksanda Ilincic’s show and inspired some of its embellishments.
Photo: Courtesy of Seven Magic Mountains / @sevenmagicmountains; Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv3/14Jason Wu
Wu’s starting point for Spring was Ugo Rondinone’s Seven Magic Mountains, a large-scale installation of seven 30- to 35-foot-tall stacks of brightly painted boulders in the desert outside Las Vegas that, according to Replica Handbag Store Runway, “reads as a comment on humans’ impact on nature."
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold /Indigital.tv; Getty Images4/14Mary Katrantzou
“It’s funny, I never wanted to use classical Greek art, because being from there, it seemed too obvious,” Katrantzou told Replica Handbag Store Runway after showing a collectsion that combined psychedelia and Hellenic motifs. “But this time, I thought, Why not?”
Photo: HERR490007, Carmen Herrera , Iberic, 1949, Acrylic on canvas on board, 101.6 cm / 40 in diameter / © Carmen Herrera, Courtesy Lisson Gallery; Monica Feudi / indigitl.tv5/14Akris
Albert Kriemler moved his collectsion from Paris to New York this Spring, where he was, wrote Nicole Phelps, set free by his inspiration: the paintings of Carmen Herrera, a 101-year-old Cuban-American artist whose work is now on view at the Whitney.
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv; Getty Images6/14Céline
Phoebe Philo, who is married to gallerist Max Wigram, upped the artfulness of her Spring collectsion by presenting it within a pavilion created by Dan Graham and by featuring dresses with prints influenced by Yves Klein. A win-win situation, according to Sarah Mower, who wrote that Philo showed “a broad spectrum of clothes designed to make everyday life a little easier and more beautiful for lots of women.”
Photo: Alamy; Umberto Fratini / Indigital.tv7/14Creatures of Comfort
Jade Lai traveled to Mexico City prior to designing her latest collectsion, and she returned with lots of inspiration that was made manifest in embellishments inspired by Frida Kahlo and lotería cards.
Photo: Alamy; Umberto Fratini / Indigital.tv8/14David Koma
“I’ve never really done references,” Koma told Luke Leitch, but the designer did this season, looking at early-20th-century Russian court dress, and, one guesses, Fabergé as well. “I’m from St. Petersburg, after all,” Koma said.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv; Getty Images9/14Proenza Schouler
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s Spring collectsion was rooted in the classics. Not only did the pair travel to Paris to visit “almost defunct” couture ateliers and learn from their old-school techniques, but they applied images of Greek statuary to clothing and accessories.
Photo: Getty Images; Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv10/14Delpozo
“The perennially art-referencing designer Josep Font took inspiration from the Spanish Impressionist Joaquín Sorolla and contemporary artist Soo Sunny Park,” wrote Kristin Anderson for Replica Handbag Store Runway. “The former lent Font the exquisite deep periwinkle of his opening looks ('Sorolla blue').”
Photo: Courtesy of Greg Kessler Studio; Courtesy of Caitlin MacBride11/14Phelan
The prints at Phelan’s show, a strong outing for the designer Amanda Phelan, featured prints that “riff[ed] on the work of painter Caitlin MacBride . . . [and] expanded on the artist’s explorations of the look of folded fabric,” Maya Singer wrote.
Photo: Getty Images; Umberto Fratini / indigital.tv12/14Christian Wijnants
This Belgian designer claims that the artist Christo’s Floating Piers, recently exhibited in Italy, influenced his Spring collectsion. “I like the idea of nylon and creating a bit of a parachute,” Wijnants told Nick Remsen.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv; Alamy13/14Tome
Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin celebrated their fifth anniversary by sending almost 50 looks down their runway. “There was a real sense of joy that rang through the clothes, some of which,” wrote Alessandra Codinha, “boasted geometric prints inspired by Bridget Riley’s artwork.”
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv; Courtesy of the Estate of Antonio Loopez and Juan Ramos and Leitzes14/14Kenzo
Kenzo Takada was at his peak in the disco 1970s; another mover and shaker of the time was Antonio Lopez, the subject of a current show at El Museo del Barrio. After mining the artist’s archive, Kenzo designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim developed prints based on Polaroids and tracings of sketches made by Lopez.
